Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Second Buttress

Avalon Rising T,S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Classic Finger Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephantiasis T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Pine Tree Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tough Situation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,531 total, 27/month
Shared By: Lorin Seeks on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


129 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a stunning, finger crack running up the main top face of the 2nd buttress. Scramble up class 4 rocks, starting at the water pipe, and belay from the top of the gully. Rise up and right, then move up the face and out.

Protection

Stoppers, small cams.
Fehim Hasecic
Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Fehim Hasecic   Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
It should be called one finger jam crack.... Oct 30, 2016
This was fun! Dec 31, 2012
Zane E
Lyons, CO
 
Zane E   Lyons, CO
 
Maybe it's been a while since it rained, but the "finger cracks" were so filled up with chalk it made it so slippery I used the tiny face holds. Oct 4, 2011
George K. Watson
Nederland, CO
  5.9-
George K. Watson   Nederland, CO
  5.9-
Did this years ago and then again today, it's fun if you are in the neighborhood, but it's very short and very little 'finger crack' climbing technique is actually used. #2 Camalot is good for the initial little corner smaller and bigger by one size would work also. Wireds and a #1.5 Friend for the 'finger crack'. Aug 11, 2010
analogical  
5.9
The climbing is well worth doing if you come down from the top after another climb (we did Northwest Face, which is terrific).

The scramble down toward the rap tree and then over to the base of the climb wasn't bad at all (much better than the Ramp at Devil's Tower, just to make one comparison). Jun 6, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
This is a sweet climb. Great gear the entire way combined with a pumpy crux make this a Boulder Canyon must do. Jan 31, 2009
I did this climb with Larry not too long ago and also I taught a CMC trip on the pine tree route a few weeks back. I asked one of the workers if we were allowed to be here. He said "you guys are climbers" I said "yes" he then said "you're allowed to be here". So, I'm not sure if it's just climbers who are allowed to be there or what, but we also ran into other climbers. After all that chatter, all I can say is that I'm not sure but one of the workers told us it was OK. Oct 10, 2005
Is this area open now? The sign I saw last week on the orange fencing said closed until 10/23 under penalty of $300 fine for anyone caught climbing in the entire Dome area. Oct 7, 2005
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
 
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
 
This is so not worth going out of your way for. I can't imagine who the hell would name it "Classic" Finger Crack. It is a good route for about 15 feet. The most amount of vertical you will gain will be on the scramble up to the crack! The only way this route would be three star is if it got one star for each move. Nov 1, 2004
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Agree with you AC, its a face climb that you use the finger crack to climb! And a #8 stopper placement is bomber up in the middle of the crack, but a black alien placement 2' lower is hard to pass up...this climb is like a 3 move wonder...but ohhhh so good... Sep 8, 2004
2 cents on the approach scramble: It's really not that bad, if you take your time, and pick out the path of least resistance. If you are concerned, put on your climbing shoes first. Don't be deterred by this alone.

To get down, the rappel off the pine tree is also straightforward to get to.

Oh, and the climb itself was fun, but was much more of a face climb than a crack climb, i.e. not too many jams. Sep 6, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I'd like to applaud the sentiment of the previous post. Difficulty is rarely synonymous with danger. The class 4 approach is long and steep and hardly seems worth the risk for a 30 foot pitch. If you want to climb easy stuff without a rope, why bother bringing the gear to do the crack? Aug 3, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
Looking up from the bike path or road, the upper face looks angled enough that you might guess its a romp up the crack, but don't be fooled. Its steep, and might feel harder than 5.9 at the crux on your first attempt. I've done this route 3 times now and it never gets easier, but always stays fun. There is a good hold out left, at the crux, that is easy to overlook, but allows advancement of the left foot high enough to get thru the little bulge in the middle of the face. Lots of foot smearing required, but the rock is excellent. Although the climb is short, I enjoy the sustained nature of the climbing on this route. My favorite climb on the Elephant Buttresses. Apr 26, 2003
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
And the Naked Edge can be climbed with nothing but a chalk bag. Knock yourself out, kiddo. But that's really not the point. It just seems more pleasant to rappel than scrambling up with hands-and-feet-needed terrain with "varied ability" partners. Jul 24, 2002
There is nothing "Spooky" about the approach as it can be done barefoot and in the dark going up and down. Jul 24, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
A good way to access this climb without the spooky class 4 is to climb any one of the fine routes leaving the waterpipe (Monster Women P1 roof to Mojo Rising P2 corner?) that puts you on top of the buttresses. Scramble 'round back and set up an anchor on top of the Second Butrress and rap down to the belay shelf (no cheating!).

On a side note, I was thinking as I scaled the immaculate face how in another era (ours) and in another place (sport park) this route would have been bolted to save time fishing stoppers into the small crack at the crux. Leading this clean is an honor and a bolt would certainly detract from the experience. (This tirade is not intended to give the impression that this climb is difficult to protect with gear, on the contrary, and my point) Now that I'm spouting my opinions, I think other climbs I have not done that I could experience on gear (and let me make that distinction clear: runnouts are ok if they fall comfortably below the climb's crux pitch, but boy do I love bolts on rock like the Monestary) would fulfill me more. Just a note to anyone with first assenssionist's fever and a bolt gun. Jul 8, 2002
Actually, this crack can also be aided on lead AND Top Rope at C1. The anchor at the top can be a double length sling around a horn. Less than vertical slope and easy placements make this an awesome introductory aid climb. I'd recommend doubling up on stoppers 11-13, TCUs (not FCUs) .5 or .75, and maybe a #3 Camalot along w/slings for tiny horns. Be careful though, the top chockstone is hollow as shit so don't spend too much time on it. And finally NO PINS!! Oct 13, 2001