Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Duncan Ferguson, 1972
Page Views: 4,067 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

98 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


Go left and through the big roof just left of Classic Finger Crack. It's a great hand and finger crack climb that meets up right at the top of Classic Finger Crack...great toprope. It's rated 5.9 in the Rossiter book, but it's definitely 5.10 and much harder than Classic Finger Crack. The roof is really thin on feet, and the handcrack is good but slippery.


Nuts, small cams.


Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
An excellent line. The feet really are not as good as they may appear from below. I think this route is about mid 5.10 perhaps a/b. Also a better approach than coming up the gully is just as the second buttress starts you will see crack going over a little bulge, layback this crack (a little dirty on feet) and approach the base of the route via a flake that runs just left of an arete and then up a slab. I give this line 2 stars and the Tough Situation 3 stars. Sep 20, 2001
I found this a nice hard 5.9, taking great pro and offering fun moves all through the lower two thirds. Throw a nice nut in the roof at the bottom, head out, and enjoy the awkward start. I suggest taking lots of friends to see how many different ways the roof can be overcome! Oct 20, 2001
Careful footwork and good jams in the roof make this route no harder than 5.9. Taller folks and those who can do the splits will find this route easier. Dec 31, 2001
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
The initial roof is hand jam heaven (9? 10? Depends on your technique and the number of climbers who have gone before you) and above, finger fun. A quality route that really needs a 100 foot extention... Jul 8, 2002
From a ledge half way up this beauty, one can make an airy step around right and gain a beautiful thin crack that joins the last moves of the Classic Finger Crack. Interesting moves, bomber blue Alien. I love this little cliff! Jul 23, 2002
This climb is really just a one (grunt) move wonder. Put one hand in the perfect jam, stem up and you are over the roof. 5.9 tops. The rest of the climb is nice, but much easier. I thought Classic Finger Crack (originally rated 5.8) was more technical and harder because the stances for placing pro seemed more tenuous. Aug 21, 2002
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
After TRing this a few times over the years, finally sent this on lead the other day. Its often wet and slippery in the crack under the roof. Get a solid left hand hold high in the vertical crack underneath, then reach up and lock the right hand into the crack at the outside edge of the roof while stemming out on the face with the right foot. Then crank over moving the right foot higher onto a good ledge and left onto the roof top. This move can be a tough situation for shorter folks with thinner hands. Fun (7)ish crack climbing above this unless you move out onto the arete or hook it up with CFC to the right which is harder. Sews up well with 1" & 2" cams. Jun 22, 2003
Damn...this is a good one...anyone debating the + at the end of 5.9 is smoking somethin' better than what I got. Pretty hard move. Jul 31, 2003
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
That's one ghastly pic Chris. Nov 11, 2005
Brenda Leach
Ridgway, CO
Brenda Leach   Ridgway, CO
I led this climb yesterday. AFTERWARDS, I looked at cb.com and saw that godawful picture of the poor guy's broken ankles. Ouch! Sorry that happened. But, for those who want to lead this climb, don't let that scare you off. The pro's a little weird below the roof, but you can sew up this climb if you want to (which you can see that I did in the pictures below). It's a short climb, but it keeps your attention for almost the entire pitch. Nov 12, 2005
This is a short route with great moves. My partner and I both enjoyed this route more than Classic Finger Crack to the right. I felt this climb was definitely harder than 9+, but I'm also 5'4". I found the easiest way to reach the base of the climb from the top of the second buttress is to downclimb easy terrain to the rappel tree between the second and third buttress. Then, traverse west and down to the gully that can be used in the approach from the water pipe. Continue up this gully to the base of the climb. May 9, 2006
Took me a few trips to send this one, I thought this went at 5.9+ at the crux. I also thought the climbing was sustained 5.8+/5.9- up the rest of the crack. The rests seemed thin and for me; it was an endurance race to see if I could make the top without burning out. But, I was probably placing too many pieces as I was nervous after seeing that guys ankles, ouch! That said, great climb, but it's not over after the crux! May 17, 2006
Armin climber
Westminster, CO
Armin climber   Westminster, CO
Nothing like seeing two of your coworkers you have never seen climb before solo this before attempting an onsight, it got me fired up though for the send! Easiest way to approach is def the 4th class from the water pipe, my wife leads 6 trad and had no problem soloing to access this route, it only takes a few minutes and WELL worth it, my vote for best route in area. Oct 6, 2006
Fort Collins, CO
Micahisaac   Fort Collins, CO
Approached via a finger crack roof directly below and left of TS. Prolly went at 5.9. Does anyone know if this is a route? Very lichen covered, but super fun moves up an unprotected slab, then after the roof, the finger crack continues almost all the way up to the base of TS. I will probably always use this route from here on out to get up there. Jun 16, 2008
Clint Locks
Clint Locks   Boulder
There's great gear throughout this stellar (although short) pitch. don't let Chris's "ankle shots" referred to in the comments scare you off this beauty. (If you're looking for those pics, by the way, they were removed a while back). Jul 24, 2009
Evan Deis  
Very nice route (but short). I agree that it is more powerful than Classic Finger Crack, but the feet are much better. Aug 31, 2010
inside the Bubble, Colorado
Sorden   inside the Bubble, Colorado
FYI: The Bob D'Antonio book for Boulder Canyon has this route marked incorrectly on the beta photo. Oct 24, 2011
Dustin Sysko
Dustin Sysko  
The big rock on the shelf at the top was slightly wobbly yesterday. I wouldn't pull too hard on it as you top out. There is only a small, maybe loose wedge at its base. Fun short but sustained climb, slippery jams at the roof. Apr 26, 2012
David Rivers
David Rivers  
Great route, would be 3 stars if longer. Easier than the other old school 9+'s and 10a I've done in BoCan this spring, so 5.9. Jun 2, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
For what it's worth, I thought this was harder than Cosmosis just up the road. I think Cosmosis is overall a better climb than this, but this route certainly had a harder crux move over the roof into some more sustained climbing. All in all, this is a great route and protects so nicely. Nov 20, 2012
Jeff McLeod
Jeff McLeod  
For a three star variation at possibly 5.10a/b, step out onto the face to your right after finishing the finger crack section in the dihedral above the initial roof, and follow the challenging and awesome zig zag finger/tips crack to the shared finish with Classic Finger Crack. May 22, 2014
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
I liked this route but would note that it's probably a little more difficult for those with big fingers. There were several moves I had to complete without getting more than my tips in the crack. I'd call it 10b in this circumstance.

It's worth noting as well this route protects ridiculously well with 0.4-0.75 cams and offset nuts. Mar 29, 2016
Fehim Hasecic
Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Fehim Hasecic   Boulder, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Zig-zag fingertips crack on the face around corner is definitely worth doing, perfect way to round up this little gem. Oct 30, 2016
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
If a bit longer, it would be 4 stars. Dec 20, 2017