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West Face [The Capstan]

5.10a, TR,  Avg: 2.7 from 20 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > The Capstan


Start about 4 feet to the left of the obvious (difficult) crack. Move through the huecos to reach a ledge, move left and up through a few balance moves onto nice jugs. It is a fun route.


A couple of five foot slings. Conversely, you can do this as a definite highball boulder problem.

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West Face. Photo by Wes Varsos.
[Hide Photo] West Face. Photo by Wes Varsos.
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[Hide Comment] This isnt a route, its a boulder problem. V1**. May 7, 2003
[Hide Comment] The Scenic Cruise, the Yellow Wall, the Casual Route, and Astroman are boulder problems for some. Pinch Overhang is a route as far as I'm concerned. What's your point? May 7, 2003
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun route - too high for me without rope... can be down-climbed easily on the other side once you top out. Jul 28, 2010
[Hide Comment] I'll agree that this is "too high for me without a rope!" The rating of 10a seems about right. Apr 16, 2013
Kaz Hatfield
[Hide Comment] Very cool route with great holds at the bottom to start and at the top to finish it off. The crux is met at a rail of hand holds leading left and back right through a V1/5.10a sequence of moves. You can choose to make into a fun TR and run laps on it or exciting boulder problem. Sep 1, 2017