Type: Trad, Ice, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: Philippe, 2002
Page Views: 2,222 total · 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 18, 2005
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This fun little climb starts in the Dream Team/Jesus Built My Fingercrack area between the upper bridge & the Schoolroom area. Review of photos & video suggest that the ice here has been quite variable since 1996. In 1996 it appeared that an entire curtain of ice hid the Baby Butt start. In 1997 there was a dribble of ice in this corner. In 2003, there was enough ice to entice an attempt. This year, it sports a small ice roof allowing you go horizontal for a bit. Heel spurs not required but can enhance the experience. Despite asking around a bit, we have found no better/more-accurate name for this line. Mutants with fruit boots & leashless weapons will be bored. Nonetheless, it is pretty dang fun for average ice whackers (like us) with clunker warm boots and regular tools!

You can lead this line (evidence of ice screw hole); however there is no obvious fixed protection. Philippe noted that a fall before the ice can be serious with his 25 footer happening as one TCU pulled & he wound up inches off the deck. Belayers beware.

You can TR this with a single 60m rope with lots of long slings off 2 large trees just off the access trail or tie 2 ropes together. If you throw your ropes, aim for the ice prow of Jesus... To gain the start you may have to do a delicate traverse above open water below Baby Butt.

Ascend a bit of ice in a corner to below the roof. You probably need to use a rock hold or two for your L foot but otherwise lean back and reach out the 5-6 foot roof of ice. You can double heel-spur the hanging icicle on the left or go bareback and just pull over the roof. Once you get past the roof, it is WI4 terrain or less to the top. Yee haw!


Ice screws, including stubbies, small cams (TCUs?), courage.

Toprope Protection

Lots of long slings off 2 large trees to use a single 60m.