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Routes in Chaos Creek

Bobsled, The T WI4+
Luge (aka Curling), The T WI3-4
Olympic Trials T WI3
Shaqtoolik T M6+
Slalom Skiing T WI5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine
FA: unknown, maybe 5 friends
Page Views: 616 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 4, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the right of 2 subtle pillars of ice (labeled 4 in the topo) that can form on the steep section just to the right of The Luge on the upper tier of ice at Chaos Creek (first described by B. Gillett in his excellent RMNP: The Climber's Guide). It may be considered a variation to The Luge, but its difficulty seems unrepresented by The Luge's rating. This line is a tiny bit steeper than Curling and the ice is funkier. You can TR this by first climbing The Luge (WI1 or WI3). It's best to use a 60m rope to belay from below as falling ice will gravitate toward the belay.

To approach this area, park at Bear Lake in RMNP. Snowshoes are recommended, although a nice wallow can warm you up if you so desire. Hike the well-packed trail 0.5 mi to Nymph Lake. There is an old fire road/trail that shaves a couple minutes going directly from Bear Lake to Nymph. To spy this area (probably the R profile of the top of Olympic Games), you must look carefully from an arms length of the Restoration area sign, posted on one shore of the lake. You can only see the top of some of the ice from here. Take a bearing & head through the trees. Stay lower in the basin as there is a steep, avalanche-potential slope just to the R of the ice if you try to contour. It can be challenging to find the ice once you are in the forest. As you get close to the cliffs, you will likely see bits of the ice 150 feet above, head up. Snow can be chest-deep on this last bit if no one has approached lately. You can drop off the trail between Nymph & Dream Lakes and drop into the drainage below the ice but this is more challenging. Note, you can get a bit disoriented in the trees with all the crisscrossing snow shoe tracks going in circles.

Approach the pillar by starting up directly below it on candlestick ice to an ice shelf. Proceed up the steeper bit. Finish on funky ice as you top out. Anchor on one of several large trees. Rappel off trees or walkoff left to descend.

Protection

Ice screws, shade.

Toprope Protection

Slings.

Photos

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