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Routes in Mt Craig

Caveat Emptor T WI3+ M3 R
Glazed and Confused T WI3
Logjammin' T WI3
Smear and Loathing T WI5
Tunnel Vision T WI4-5
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Judkins, Nick Kuhn
Page Views: 879 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nick Kuhn on Nov 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Glazed and Confused is the left-most ice line in the same ampitheater as Tunnel Vision and Smear and Loathing. Approach as per those routes.

P1, 120ft. Start to the left of Tunnel Vision, following alternating low-angle and occasional short steep ice that ascends over several rock steps to a large ledge with big trees and a short ice headwall on the right. The climbing can be funky in this section, with spots of thin ice poorly bonded to the rock below. Belay off fat trees.

P2, 40ft. From the huge ledge, climb 15ft of good moderate ice to the bush-covered ledge above. Bash through the bushes to join the beginning of Tunnel Vision's second pitch. Belay off screws and long slings to bushes, if you want 'em.

This route could be climbed as one pitch.

Descent: From the top of Glazed and Confused, you can continue on and climb the second pitch of Tunnel Vision and descend as per that route description. Otherwise, wade through some bushes to a tree to the left and rap 40ft to your last belay. Make another rap back down the first pitch's ice to the bottom. A 60m rope doesn't quite reach, but you can easily downclimb the last 15ft on climber's left.

Protection

60m rope, couple of stubbies and medium screws, webbing for tree anchors.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Hmm, stopping by for a pint of "Hazed and Infused" sounds mandatory after this climb ... Dec 5, 2004
Brian Tessier
Lakehood, Colorado
Brian Tessier   Lakehood, Colorado
NICE !!!!! Dec 4, 2004