Three Blind Mice aka Sabertooth
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Routes in Vail, Booth Creek
|Three Blind Mice aka Sabertooth T WI4|
|Type:||Trad, Ice, Grade II|
|FA:||Joe Keyser, Scott Welsh, and Jeff Swander, February 28, 2004|
|Page Views:||1,210 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Keyser on Feb 27, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a curtain of unhacked, solid, blue ice. Maybe about 80 feet tall, and 40-50 feet wide. When we visited it, there were independent lines anywhere from solid WI4 to as high as WI5/5+. The easiest lines being on the far right, and left side variations. The middle sections being a bit longer and harder. Lots of variations possible on this, and the surrounding cliffbands. Would get a tad easier with some traffic.
We climbed the left side, and found the climbing challenging due to the steep, untouched, and bullet-proof nature of the ice. Quite possible it's been climbed before. But, there were no signs of former passage, no visible anchors etc.
The rap anchor (stoppers) we left in on the upper left rock band can be backed up with a couple small-mid cams and possibly a screw for a climbing anchor. This rap just gets you down with one 60 meter rope. Or a thread at the top of the ice.
I gave it three stars due to the adventure-alpine feel of the area, and the chance to climb some thick and steep Vail ice without boot-sized chopped steps. Decently long approach though, and it was a bit spooky getting nailed by a powder-snow avalanche on the lead that left about 4-5 new feet at the base.