Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Rim

268 T WI4-5
Blue Balls T WI4
Blue Mesa Smear T WI4-5
Curecanti Monster T WI4
Potters Clay M6-
Real Blue Creek, The WI4-5
Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,505 total, 9/month
Shared By: Matt Ledges on Dec 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This smear can be reached in just 30 minutes from the pullout (see directions for Blue Mesa area). After crossing the barbed wire fence, head north across the mesa, aiming just west of a distinct grouping of aspen. Walk down the drainage to the top of the climb. The rappel is about 130-140 feet, two ropes are needed.

There are countless variations on this broad smear, mostly straightforward solid WI4 climbing. The lead is reasonable with frequent foot rests but the ice can be very brittle. There is a sustained 50 feet vertical line to climber's left but it leads to a very awkward topout through a large bush. Some mixed climbing can be found to the right as the ice truly smears out. Up the gut the ice can be several feet thick. Not much sunlight here, but views looking down into and across the canyon alone make this trip worthwhile. Allow 45 minutes to an hour for the retreat.

Protection

Half dozen medium screws.

Toprope Protection

To minimize friction use a 20-30 feet sling around the largest somewhat slanting tree in the middle.

0 Comments