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Routes in Bear Lake - immediate vicinity

Bear Lake Ice T WI2-3
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Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,157 total · 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Curious? Close to the road but limited in size & ice volume, this area has ice bits that can accomodate a few swings. Imagination may be the primary ingredient in finding amusement here. At least a dozen short lines may be found here. Some may liken it to the Racquet Club area in Vail. Take the Bear Lake Rd in RMNP to its end, find a parking spot, & hike to the far side of the lake, perhaps 10 minutes.

There is ice described in the WI2-3 range up to 100 ft in C. Burns' "Colorado Ice Climber's Guide" guide. Hmmmm. In a few wanderings by, ice of this length has never shown itself to me. However, there is an obvious, short wall of yellow ice (perhaps 12 feet high) on the far side that has seen a few tool placements over the years.

Other "mixed opportunities" have been referenced briefly in B. Gillett's RMNP "The Climber's Guide, High Peaks." Most are 30 ft or less. There is also a very short wall for ice bouldering to the L. There can be a short mixed problem on the L (M4) side of the yellow flow.

There is a low-angled ice ramp that often gets coated with snow in the winter. There are intriguing dribbles of ice to the R & to the L of the ramp. There is a fun, mixed problem with a L (M4) & R (M5) start to a hanging pillar.

Up and R of this area the cliff continues & provides at least 4 short less-than-vertical smears that give pause to lead but are fun to TR. L->R: WI3 X, WI3 X, M3 WI3 X, M2 R.

Protection

Stubbie screws, Aliens; though perhaps it's better to TR around here.

Toprope Protection

Slings, long ones can be useful, around trees provide the bulk of the anchors.

Photos

Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
As Leo said, this is a fun practice area for a mellow day out in the park. Opportunities for numerous variations, and short boulder problem-like climbs. Use some imagination, and good fun can be had by all! Be ready to answer lots of questions from snowshoers though... "does this trail go to the other lake?", "how did you get your rope up there?", etc... Jan 20, 2004

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