Type: Trad, Ice, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Frank Crum, early to mid-1970s
Page Views: 4,825 total · 18/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 14, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Private Property - Not open to the public DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is private property and only open to certain guides! Due to overuse and overcrowding, the landowner has created a permit & calendar system. Unlike public land areas where recreation users have right of way, this location does not fall under this. Permitted guides & outfitters may ask recreation users to vacate if courses or guiding is underway. Please respect this and climb elsewhere.

This is a local spot for beginners and those wishing to escape the madness of Vail or Lincoln. Anyone else, don't go there. Close to the road, it lies, but protected from winds and vehicular noise from US Hwy 24. North of Leadville and south of Copper Mountain lies this frozen waterfall on private land. About 40 feet of vertical, and usually only 1 flow. You can usually judge the crowds by the cars parked at this pullout. Note, snowmobilers will use the area, too.

In the morning, you can gear up in the sun. In the afternoon, the sun can still be accessed up the slope a bit. The ice forms as a shell of the flowing water underneath. Beware, it can be thin. It can be brittle when cold in the morning, ask Joe. Previous years like 2001-2 have had a curtain form to the left of the flow with some guidance. Scratch marks on the rock to the right and left suggest mixed climbers have played here. The anchors above are two trees, one (10 feet back) of which is quite slender, perhaps 20 feet back from the ice. There are 2 slings and 2 rappel rings on the larger tree. A 50m rope is adequate for climbs here. Lead it or set up a TR with an approach up the gully to the sides. Note, some folks have gotten cliffed by wandering up the wrong line. A few laps of climbing and it's time to move on.

Protection Suggest change

2-4 ice screws, longs slings for the anchor. 50m rope is more than adequate. The surrounding rock is shattered

Toprope Protection Suggest change

Long slings for the anchor, and a 50m rope is more than adequate.

Directions Suggest change

This area lies about 100 miles from Denver.

From Leadville, head north on Hwy 24 towards Copper Mountain. As you approach Climax Mine & Fremont Pass, stop about 3.4 miles short and just past some power lines that cross the road.

From Denver, take I-70 to Copper Mt, S on 24, pass the Climax Mine/Fremont Pass 3.4 miles. You go through the switchbacks downhill and about 0.1 mile short of power lines crossing overhead.

I-70 to Copper Mt, S on 24, pass the Climax Mine/Fremont Pass 3.4 miles. You go through the switchbacks downhill and about 0.1 mile short of power lines crossing overhead, there is a pull out on the W side with the Forest Trail #134 marked for snowmobilers, cross-country skiers, hikers. Head uphill/N on the trail perhaps 100 yards. Look for tracks crossing into the woods at a soft angle to the L. Hike down briefly into the streambed with lots of loose debris (somewhat reminiscent of the Silverplume) and then 200 or 300 yards upstream.5-10 minutes at most.