Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
FA: Todd Ritter, Scott Lehman, D Ferguson?, B. Armstrong?, E Helmuth?
Page Views: 2,476 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Lehman on Sep 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Regulations Details


The route climbs a thin, ephemeral, smear on the lower right portion of the NW Face of Chief's Head. We climbed two moderately angled, poorly protected pitches to the gully system descending from McHenry's. Under thicker conditions it may be possible to join this with a smear formed above the left rising ledge that defines the start of Path of Elders (but still right of Birds of Fire). FA (?) conditions were full on Scottish, with wind driven snow and poorly consolidated rime. The line had apparently been noted earlier by the much-missed Mike Bearzi, but has not to our knowledge been climbed previously. (Note, however, that we both have real jobs, so will not be too disturbed to learn that we are mistaken.) The line was scoped while descending from The Barb via the North Ridge of Spearhead in slippers under wintery conditions a few days earlier- a more difficult proposition than the smear itself.


Tied off stubbies.