Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
FA: Dale Remsberg and Eli Helmuth
Page Views: 5,192 total · 21/month
Shared By: Dale Remsberg on Nov 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The ice portion of this route is probably not new as it would form all the way in fat years. But a great alterative to the common lean years is this mixed start "New Beginnings". The route is down and right from the Guide's Wall and is the first main ice curtain. This mixed variation takes the slight ramp up to the curtain. It is vertical to slightly overhung near the ice and climbing is never [desperate] and the gear good. The route is about 20 meters tall with the mixed and ice split perfectly in half. V thread for descent or walk off (did not try the walk off option).

Protection Suggest change

Ice srews, small cams including 00 TCU up to 0.5 Camalot, including double yellow TCU size. Also a small assortment of nuts. We left a bomber pin that I placed on lead and no other pins should be needed. The gear is good on this route.