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Routes in Alcove/Pic of the Vic area to the Upper Bridge

Abridgement T WI4
Baby's Butt T WI4-5 M7
Bandelero TR WI4
Berserker T,TR WI4
Camino TR WI3
Desperado T WI3-4
Dream Team T WI4 M5
Duncan's Delight T,TR WI5 R
Easter Rising T WI4-5 M8
Flamenco T WI4
Harderline T WI4-5 M9
Hardline T WI4-5 M8
Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI4 M6-7
L of Pocket Rocket T WI6 M5
Paranoia T,TR WI4-5
Pick o' the Vic T,TR WI4
Tangled Up In Blue T,TR WI3-4
Terminal Velocity T WI6
Tribe T WI4 M6
Verminator, The T,TR WI4
Whitt's World WI4
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 110 ft
FA: Mark Miller
Page Views: 866 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 5, 2002
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Direct start past 3 bolts on an smooth rock wall to gain a hanging curtain. Powerful, desperate, & gymnastic. Sometimes the ice touches down & it is not mixed. Thanks Philippe & Vince for the info & topos.

Protection

3 bolts and screws.

Toprope Protection

60m rope, long slings from 2 trees, to below rock band, drop down downstream/right of tree 40 feet down. Beware of water for rope ends.

Photos

There are two routes shown here. The one with the climber in blue tackling the steep rotten crack to latch the pillar is called Terminal Velocity. It wasnt there last year, but was led ground-up this year. We decided to call it Terminal Velocity after I took a 25footer trying to onsight it. It takes cams in the crack but should probably get a R rating.(I missed the ground by about 6 inches when one of my equalized TCUS ripped out.

The other route was put up by Mark Miller initially led ground-up. He named it Baby's Butt because the rock is smoothly polished on the face. If y'all are looking for more details on park routes and development the best source I've found is Vince Andersons Ice Park Guide. I used to live in Ouray and have climbed most of the routes around there. Vince is the owner of Skyward Mountaineering and could be said to be the local mixed-master.

Finally, just right of Terminal Velocity, with the same start is a center overhanging crackline which leads to a steep skinny desparate pencil. I led it on my second try and it felt harder than TV. Again it was led ground-up with pins and cams. Very sustained as the pillar stays wicked steep the whole way. High quality route!

Thanks for coming down to Ouray and remember stay at the Riverside Inn

Philippe May 4, 2002