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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge

Brown Smear? T WI5- R
Crystal Meth T WI4+
Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+
Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R
Icy Chim T M5-6 R
L of Lochluster T WI4 M4
Lochluster T WI3
M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R
Mixed Feelings T WI4 M5
Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R
Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3
Pointlessness T M7
R of Lochluster TR WI4-
Replicant (unnamed) TR M6
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R
Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft
FA: Alex Lowe
Page Views: 10,480 total, 18/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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29 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent route when it is in condition. Approach as for Loch Vale ice climbs and continue around to the east face of the Loch Vale ice climbing area. Hike up the snow to a point where the traverse crack is obvious. The route traverses out this crack to the right and then climbs up to the ice curtain on its left. You then move right, onto the ice, and go for the top.

Protection

Cams can be used to protect the traverse. There is a pin that can be clipped before committing to the ice. Ice screws protect the ice above.

Toprope Protection

This is not the best route to toprope because the ice curtain is usually less than 5 inches thick at the bottom and is easily trashed. If you do TR, there is a large tree at the top of the climb.
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  WI3+ M3+
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  WI3+ M3+
Andy, I think it's for when the curtain is super lean and doesn't form over the lip. Don't worry though, it's super out of the way from the standard route. You'd have to go out of your way to clip it, and the rope drag would be bad.

I found a #2 pecker protects...okay...when the curtain doesn't hang super low.

Alex Lowe was the man! Dec 16, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  WI5- M4
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  WI5- M4
This fine traditional mixed route now sports a shiny bolt where there was once a knifeblade.... What's up with this addition? Nov 22, 2014
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
  WI5 M6
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
  WI5 M6
Spanking and Stellar! Anyone should go lead it and then try to say it's M3, with a straight face. There's a free stubby in the snow under the dick-sicle if you can find it. I could not. Jan 7, 2008
Ferrato
WI5-6 M6
Ferrato  
WI5-6 M6
The 3 bolt start is actually pretty good, nice moves although #3 is in a whonky spot. Chopping these bolts is only going to mutilate the rock and frankly I don't see how, now that they are in, these bolts offer any more visual impact than those placed tediously by hand, they are actually rather hard to pick out. Mind you I am not encouraging power-drill use in the Park or other wild areas where they are prohibited, indeed I heard at the time that the blokes who Bosched this thing could nay do it.

This is a good little crag so leave it be, as is... Oct 25, 2006
There is no question that this variation to Mixed Feelings should and will be chopped.

It has been led several times using natural pro (pins and nuts) and so therefore making the bolts unnecessary but by placing the bolts with a motorized drill it allows the park service the excuse to come and ban other routes in the area. Feb 23, 2005
Re. recently reported bolting of "direct start" to Mixed Emotions and question about FA- I have seen Ryan Vachon lead the route several times with no gear to the traverse ledge and very lean gear through the seem/crack left of the ice (or into the left side of the ice in fat years). This line has been scratched up for years, but would guess it is not often lead.... Feb 17, 2005
I want to know more about this new bolted route on Mixed Feelings. Who is Jack B.? I would like to hear from him about this. It sounds cool. Feb 16, 2005
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
In response to Ben's post: the climb that is described here and all the pictures are for "Mixed Emotions" which Gillett calls M6 WI4+. "Mixed Feelings" is actually right near the fork in the trail after you get into the gorge. So, yes, it is harder than M5... but it might also be considered accurate for the grade in other areas, being huge holds really close together. Jan 19, 2005
Just as a heads up...As of last month the second pin (# 1 blade) is no longer there! I blew out the placement when I tried to replace it with a # 3...Sorry, but considering that the pin shifted with a slight test tap I would not have wanted to hang on it!!! Definitely a false sense of security at best! Too bad the water isn't flowing like it used to (down to the angle). Dec 29, 2003
I haven't done but a handful of mixed routes so don't take my word for it, but I think this is harder than M5 for the conditions when the ice doesn't start until after the angle decreases to less than vertical. Feb 17, 2003
Dan St. John
Castle Rock
Dan St. John   Castle Rock
This route is easily toproped. In fact, I have only seen one lead in the 6-7 time I have been there. Mar 1, 2002
I don't get the comment about this route not being suitable for toproping -- is that just to keep the rifraff off? Jan 16, 2002
Thin this year (12/8/01). The ice is a few moves above the fixed pin, and only 4 inches thick for 15'. It's doable, though. Dec 10, 2001