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Mixed Emotions
WI5- M5,
Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 45
votes
FA: Alex Lowe, Dave Gustafson, 1981
Colorado
> CO Ice & Mixed
> RMNP - Mixed/Ice
> Glacier Gorge T…
> Loch Vale Gorge
Access Issue: Regulations
Details
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted
here.
Description
This is an excellent route when it is in condition. Approach as for Loch Vale ice climbs and continue around to the east face of the Loch Vale ice climbing area. Hike up the snow to a point where the traverse crack is obvious. The route traverses out this crack to the right and then climbs up to the ice curtain on its left. You then move right, onto the ice, and go for the top.
Protection
Cams can be used to protect the traverse. There is a pin that can be clipped before committing to the ice. Ice screws protect the ice above.
Toprope Protection
This is not the best route to toprope because the ice curtain is usually less than 5 inches thick at the bottom and is easily trashed. If you do TR, there is a large tree at the top of the climb.
[Hide Photo] Matt Baughman leads as Kyle Kunhle belays on 'Mixed Feelings' in Loch Vale. November 04'. Photo: Jon Lane Sullivan
[Hide Photo] Dave traversing into the start.
Castle Rock
Fakeville, USA
It has been led several times using natural pro (pins and nuts) and so therefore making the bolts unnecessary but by placing the bolts with a motorized drill it allows the park service the excuse to come and ban other routes in the area. Feb 23, 2005
This is a good little crag so leave it be, as is... Oct 25, 2006
Pine, Colorado
Longmont, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
I found a #2 pecker protects...okay...when the curtain doesn't hang super low.
Alex Lowe was the man! Dec 16, 2014
Bozeman, MT
Bozeman, MT