Silver Plume Falls
Avg: 1.7 from 39 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||6,407 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Zeller on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionSilverplume Falls forms a wide amphitheater of 60-80 degree ice at the head of the ravine. The formation consists of a short, lower-step followed by a short ledge and finally a longer steep section that is the main section of the climb. The area is wide enough to accommodate several parties, and many variations are possible. The ice, however, is usually thick and homogeneous with all routes fairly similar. Some easy mixed climbing can be had to the edges of the climb. The ice is on the southern aspect of the mountain and has a fair amount of sun exposure. Therefore, the ice forms a soft, white, foamy consistency rather than the clear hard ice on northern aspects.
Descent: rappel or scramble down rock to the right of the route. Depending upon your comfort level, steep and loose rock may warrant roping up here, but the scramble is certainly less than 5th class.
ProtectionScrews, the ice is usually thick enough to take long screws.
If the left pillar is lead in leaner conditions, a #2 Camalot can be used in the angling crack.
Toprope ProtectionScrews, bolts and slings. The area above the climb is a gravel sandbar of mining tailings, and there is actually very little top-rope protection available.
There are 2 boulders with 3 bolts each and chains. The right boulder seems larger and more stable. The left boulder is close to 30m (requiring a 60m rope). The right boulder is close to 35m (requiring a 70m rope).
Use several screws as a backup if there is enough ice.