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Routes in Juniper Wall

Blood on the Rocks S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Child's Play S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranial Bypass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cranial Impact S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Time Crunch S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, TR, 35 ft
FA: Tom Hansen, Scott Unice
Page Views: 1,431 total · 9/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

One of AF Canyon's easier routes in a beautiful location. This route is the second route from the left (north) of Juniper Wall. The route is partially shaded by evergreens in the afternoon.

The climbing is small positive edges and a few pockets. The start is thin; the crux, such as it is, is a small bulge about half way up.

It is one of the few AF routes that can be easily top roped by reaching the anchor from the top. The anchor is reached by scrambling around the north end of Juniper Wall (easy 3rd class).

There is a juniper "tree" (bush, really) about 10 feet back from the edge that can be used to secure yourself while setting up a top rope (I used it; braver souls might skip it).

Protection

Four bolts to two chain anchors. Anchor is accessible from the top.

Photos

Brock Jones
Provo, UT
 
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
 
This route was more fun than it has any right to be. I didn't think it looked like much more than a warm-up, but it was surprisingly much more thought provoking and interesting than routes of this grade and length in AF tend to be. Jul 31, 2018
Matthew Haney
Cedar Hills, Utah
 
Matthew Haney   Cedar Hills, Utah
 
Anyone know the climb to the right of Child's Play? Seems like a super fun one. Aug 21, 2018

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