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Chicago Overhang

5.10b, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 24 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Kitchen

Description

Overhanging, bouldery start to an overhanging, broken pumpfest.

The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.

It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."

It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where a top rope won't rub excessively, so bring some 1 inch webbing or static rope.

Protection

Two bolt anchor at the top of the outcrop; a long sling or some static rope is needed to get the anchor point over the edge.

Location

Chicago Overhang is immediately east of the The Kitchen, just inside the gate. It is a north-facing, very irregular outcrop with two prominent bulges.

There is a two-bolt hanger-and-chain anchor at the top of the formation that can be used for top roping either the Chicago Overhang or Chicago's West Side. To reach the anchor requires a bit of work: Either easy Class 5 climbing - the short way, just to the south of the face itself - or Class 4 scrambling - the longer way, south up the slot between The Kitchen and Chicago's West Side and then back north on the top of the Chicago formation.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chicago Overhang on Feb 4, 2006. View from the gate.
[Hide Photo] Chicago Overhang on Feb 4, 2006. View from the gate.
Zero rope drag on Chicago Overhang - Peter Duckett
[Hide Photo] Zero rope drag on Chicago Overhang - Peter Duckett
A look at the chains on top of the Chicago formation.
[Hide Photo] A look at the chains on top of the Chicago formation.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Gillis
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This overhang is not 5.8. The first part, if done straight on is either V1 or V2 and then the second overhang is probably a strenuous 5.8. Dangerous lead, I would toprope it before leading it. I have been doing this overhang since 1976 and it is not 5.8. Jan 3, 2006
veritus
redlands, ca
[Hide Comment] I'm with mark. I feel its either 5.11a with the boulder start or 5.8 if you start off to the left. Jun 30, 2006
Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Straight up middle start is 11b
Left side easier start is 5.10c
Or maybe it’s 5.8 Apr 15, 2020
Richard Stubbs
Medford, OR
 
[Hide Comment] The rating on this site is a bit of a sandbag, I would really call this more of a 11a. Even the guidebook of American fork canyon and Rock Canyon calls it an 11. I climbed it when I was 18 and at a much better peak than I am now, it was a serious struggle then, and I can't do it now. (I am maxed on 10c nowadays outside) Aug 24, 2021