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Routes in The Kitchen

Chicago Overhang TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicago's West Side T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Double Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mark's Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr Numbers S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Panic City S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,069 total, 14/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 14, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Overhanging, bouldery start to an overhanging, broken pumpfest.

The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.

It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."

It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where a top rope won't rub excessively, so bring some 1 inch webbing or static rope.

Protection

Two bolt anchor at the top of the outcrop; a long sling or some static rope is needed to get the anchor point over the edge.

Location

Chicago Overhang is immediately east of the The Kitchen, just inside the gate. It is a north-facing, very irregular outcrop with two prominent bulges.

There is a two-bolt hanger-and-chain anchor at the top of the formation that can be used for top roping either the Chicago Overhang or Chicago's West Side. To reach the anchor requires a bit of work: Either easy Class 5 climbing - the short way, just to the south of the face itself - or Class 4 scrambling - the longer way, south up the slot between The Kitchen and Chicago's West Side and then back north on the top of the Chicago formation.

Photos

veritus
redlands, ca
veritus   redlands, ca
I'm with mark. I feel its either 5.11a with the boulder start or 5.8 if you start off to the left. Jun 30, 2006
Mark Gillis
  5.11a
Mark Gillis  
  5.11a
This overhang is not 5.8. The first part, if done straight on is either V1 or V2 and then the second overhang is probably a strenuous 5.8. Dangerous lead, I would toprope it before leading it. I have been doing this overhang since 1976 and it is not 5.8. Jan 3, 2006