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Chicago Overhang
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 24
votes
Routes in The Kitchen
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Chicago Overhang TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chicago's West Side T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Double Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mark's Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mr Numbers S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Panic City S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,028 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Oct 14, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Overhanging, bouldery start to an overhanging, broken pumpfest.
The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.
It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."
It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where a top rope won't rub excessively, so bring some 1 inch webbing or static rope.
The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.
It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."
It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where a top rope won't rub excessively, so bring some 1 inch webbing or static rope.
Protection
Two bolt anchor at the top of the outcrop; a long sling or some static rope is needed to get the anchor point over the edge.
Location
Chicago Overhang is immediately east of the The Kitchen, just inside the gate. It is a north-facing, very irregular outcrop with two prominent bulges.
There is a two-bolt hanger-and-chain anchor at the top of the formation that can be used for top roping either the Chicago Overhang or Chicago's West Side. To reach the anchor requires a bit of work: Either easy Class 5 climbing - the short way, just to the south of the face itself - or Class 4 scrambling - the longer way, south up the slot between The Kitchen and Chicago's West Side and then back north on the top of the Chicago formation.
There is a two-bolt hanger-and-chain anchor at the top of the formation that can be used for top roping either the Chicago Overhang or Chicago's West Side. To reach the anchor requires a bit of work: Either easy Class 5 climbing - the short way, just to the south of the face itself - or Class 4 scrambling - the longer way, south up the slot between The Kitchen and Chicago's West Side and then back north on the top of the Chicago formation.
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