PRINT: Rock Climb Castaway, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Castaway

5.9+ R, , 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 10 votes
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Libby Ellis
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Sail

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This is the line of bolts on the east end of the Sail. Start directly below the first bolt ,which is about 20 ft. up in a shallow dihedral ,crossing the diagonal crack start for the Wilson- Love route. Some pro can be had in this crack, providing some psychological comfort. 5 more old school bolts pleced apart in old school fashion will get one to the top. There is a 1/4 bolt and a pin just below the top, when backed up I found to be a suitable top rope anchor, providing that one is using a 70 meter rope ,as I do not think a 60 will reach the ground. With a little more traffic, some new fat bolts, and a beefier anchor, this route may deserve anothe star. Great moves, interesting climbing and a spectacular position will reward one for the long approach.

Protection

5 old bolts and some pro for the start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Michaels

Fun route, but definitely needs bolts replaced! Rusty buttonhead drive ins!My advice: top rope this one! Nov 23, 2005

T_jones
Salt Lake

Can place a # 2 friend before the first bolt and a # 1 friend in the flake in between the second and third bolt. This route was alot like leggo my eggo...except there were 2 crux moves that made it super fun to lead. Mar 22, 2008

Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT

5.9+ R

A single 60 works to get you to the ground from the bolt/pin anchor. At least I'm pretty sure we were using a 60. Wasn't my rope. You may want to take sacrificial tat up there with you for the anchor. The bolt for the anchor is new, hopefully the pin will be replaced with a new bolt someday. Fun. Reminded me of leading "The Viewing." I used a .4 (between bolts 2&3) and .5 (before the 1st) camalot in addition to the bolts. May 31, 2010

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT

Several of the bolts still need to be replaced. Easy to TR from the top though. Mar 16, 2015

DrippySnot Peggs
CrumbleFlake, Salt Lake

5.10 R

Got on the direct variation, pretty full on 10 slab. The rest is classic 9+, quite an engaging puzzle...Most bolts are still spinning button heads. Oct 28, 2021

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT

That's impressive Drippy! The bolts on this route really need replacement as does the tat at the anchor. Lower section is getting somewhat vegetated due to lack of traffic no doubt. Feb 14, 2022