Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||650 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||John J. Glime on Oct 15, 2005|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
If you hike to the Reservoir Ridge area, the chimney is located high in the tan rock layer east of Reservoir Ridge. (See picture.) The approach is okay, head up the gully that is the descent of the full Reservoir Ridge route. (I can see that linking this climb to Reservoir Ridge would make the approach a little more fun.) The start of the climb is in an alcove on the right side of the gully.
Climb the obvious chimney up past chockstones and wonderfully old pins. Pro is plentiful until you get to the very last section before the anchor. However, now that there is a new sling anchor, you may be able to clip the anchor without having to climb up the last slippery section.
Two descent options: You are able to climb up and through the chimney downclimbing the gully of your choice on the east side. Or you can rappel back down the chimney and downclimb the approach gully. If you plan to rappel, bring webbing and a rap ring or two. Back up my rappel sling!
I don't think that this route has seen too many ascents lately... at the moment, it is a semi-adventurous route, however, once it gets cleaned out a bit on the upper sections I think it has the potential to be two stars when combined with Reservoir Ridge. It is a fun route.
Warning: The route is much, much better than it looks, however, the upper section has many loose rocks on the ledges, stem around these and be careful not to knock rocks down on your belayer.