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Goodro's Chimney
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Reservoir Ridge
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Crack Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Errors of Our Ways S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Goodro's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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I Ran To Afghanistan S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Iraq in the Back Attack S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Muddy Ethics S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reservoir Left Ice WI3 M2-3 PG13 |
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Reservoir Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Unknown Trad Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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War Clamor S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.62638, -111.74488 |
| FA: | Harold Goodro? |
| Page Views: | 1,288 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | John J. Glime on Oct 15, 2005 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: See details in expanded note.
Details
- Climbing at Storm Mountain is NOT CLOSED and climbers are allowed to continue to access climbing via Storm Mountain Picnic Area
- Parking in the Storm Mountain parking area requires a fee.
- Climbers are encouraged to use the Storm Mountain bathroom in order to protect our watershed.
- If climbing at or near the amphitheater in Storm Mountain (Big in Japan, Edge of Time) while the amphitheater is reserved or an event is on going, please consider climbing at other crags.
- Respect parking hours to avoid your car being gated in overnight. Gate closes at 10:00 p.m. daily
- If you did not reserve the facilities (amphitheater or picnic tables), please do not occupy or place personal items on the picnic tables.
- Please help the camp hosts keep the landscape clean.
(NOTE: these points are duplicated here from the Storm Mountain description so that they show up under the sub-areas.)
Description
According to John Gottman this is/was Goodro's favorite climb in the Storm Mountain Area... considering the cool routes around Storm Mountain, that is a pretty big motivator to go check it out.
If you hike to the Reservoir Ridge area, the chimney is located high in the tan rock layer east of Reservoir Ridge. (See picture.) The approach is okay, head up the gully that is the descent of the full Reservoir Ridge route. (I can see that linking this climb to Reservoir Ridge would make the approach a little more fun.) The start of the climb is in an alcove on the right side of the gully.
Climb the obvious chimney up past chockstones and wonderfully old pins. Pro is plentiful until you get to the very last section before the anchor. However, now that there is a new sling anchor, you may be able to clip the anchor without having to climb up the last slippery section.
Two descent options: You are able to climb up and through the chimney downclimbing the gully of your choice on the east side. Or you can rappel back down the chimney and downclimb the approach gully. If you plan to rappel, bring webbing and a rap ring or two. Back up my rappel sling!
I don't think that this route has seen too many ascents lately... at the moment, it is a semi-adventurous route, however, once it gets cleaned out a bit on the upper sections I think it has the potential to be two stars when combined with Reservoir Ridge. It is a fun route.
Warning: The route is much, much better than it looks, however, the upper section has many loose rocks on the ledges, stem around these and be careful not to knock rocks down on your belayer.
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