Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Harold Goodro?
Page Views: 362 total · 2/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Oct 15, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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According to John Gottman this is/was Goodro's favorite climb in the Storm Mountain Area... considering the cool routes around Storm Mountain, that is a pretty big motivator to go check it out.

If you hike to the Reservoir Ridge area, the chimney is located high in the tan rock layer east of Reservoir Ridge. (See picture.) The approach is okay, head up the gully that is the descent of the full Reservoir Ridge route. (I can see that linking this climb to Reservoir Ridge would make the approach a little more fun.) The start of the climb is in an alcove on the right side of the gully.

Climb the obvious chimney up past chockstones and wonderfully old pins. Pro is plentiful until you get to the very last section before the anchor. However, now that there is a new sling anchor, you may be able to clip the anchor without having to climb up the last slippery section.

Two descent options: You are able to climb up and through the chimney downclimbing the gully of your choice on the east side. Or you can rappel back down the chimney and downclimb the approach gully. If you plan to rappel, bring webbing and a rap ring or two. Back up my rappel sling!

I don't think that this route has seen too many ascents lately... at the moment, it is a semi-adventurous route, however, once it gets cleaned out a bit on the upper sections I think it has the potential to be two stars when combined with Reservoir Ridge. It is a fun route.

Warning: The route is much, much better than it looks, however, the upper section has many loose rocks on the ledges, stem around these and be careful not to knock rocks down on your belayer.


Standard Trad rack.


This airy climb has a nice taste of history to it. The climbing is better and steeper than it looks. The old fixed pins seem to be right at the cruxes. You get a good view from the top. I'll affirm that Harold told me this was his favorite Storm Mt. climb. Aug 15, 2009
Craig Martin
Craig Martin  
The first piton can be removed with your fingers. I left it in place for historical purposes. It can be backed up with solid gear. The other pitons are much better. Apr 21, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
First pin I clipped looked solid. Was most the way past the pin when Matt said I should test it. Popped right out. Stuffed a TCU in where the pin was.

Time bomb. Not a great idear to leave that kind of stuff on a route.

Three star route, negative 2 star approach...(!) Sep 5, 2010
Craig Martin
Craig Martin  
I left the piton for historical purposes. It was so obviously shitty I didn't think anyone would be clipping it for pro. Just goes to show...... Sep 5, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Didn't look that bad to me. I see these old fixed rings from time to time. Not sure they're that solid. Not seen one this corroded on the back end, though. Crazy.

We rappelled from the top ridge of the climb, from a solid bush. Left a sling/cord. Take care with sharp rock up there if anyone uses that rappel. We padded it fairly well with a clump of grass and some fragrant sage. 100 foot rappel. Sep 5, 2010