Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Ben Folsom , Lance Bateman Oct. 15, 2005
Page Views: 2,733 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 14, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route is on the Southeast face of the Black Peeler to the right of Peeler Direct. It climbs the righthand prow of the Peeler face. To reach, climb Orangutan Afternoon most of the way then stem right across a chimney and traverse right to a small ledge with bolt anchors and belay. For Goldeneye, climb up and left from there into a short left facing corner. Protect with a few small to medium cams. The rest of the pitch is bolt protected. Move left across a slab and around to the left side of the prow. Climb up from there following bolts to chain anchors at the top. Really good climbing.

Protection

Bring a set of cams. Quickdraws.

Photos

Ben Folsom  
 
Thats funny, it didn't require hardly any cleaning when we first did it. Surprised it is flakey now. Oct 11, 2017
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
Incredibly flakey. Bring a wire brush and plan to scrub from the top first if you hope to climb this thing. Sep 17, 2017
Ben Folsom  
 
I guess I did change the rating to 13a. I'm not good at rating things in the first place. Everyone I have talked to that has done the route tells me it is 5.13. Now days, people get so upset about a little sandbag, so figured I'd change it. Go do it, let me know what you think. Jun 13, 2014
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
This route keeps getting harder? Used to be 12c I thought. May 12, 2014
Ben Folsom  
 
Found a fixed rope on Golden Eye yesterday. It was old with core shots and totally baked to a crisp in the sun. Normally I would leave peoples fixed ropes alone out of respect for others property and for their projecting purposes. This rope however had obviously been left through the winter and was no longer safe to use. Anyway, I removed the rope, so if whoever it was wants it back, get in touch with me here. It's worthless for climbing, but still might make a few decent rugs. Jul 5, 2010
one of the best in the canyon Props Ben and Lance!! ***** Oct 29, 2007