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Routes in Buzzard Perch

Body God S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fat Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghetto Blaster AKA Straight out of the Ghetto T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Laceration T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summit Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Terror of Tiny Town T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: Dave Bingham, Tedd Thompson
Page Views: 3,950 total · 26/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Jun 5, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This route is located 20 feet to the left of Terror of Tiny Town. It is the bolted line that leads up and through a roof. It begins with a thin seam crack which deposits you on to a small ledge. Traverse the catwalk to the right for 10 feet clipping 2 bolts along the way to a small left facing dihedral with bolts on the outside. Cruise up the corner and head slightly right through some big flakes. As the flake peters out edge right and find stances in the folds of granite. from under the roof clip the bolt at the lip and get ready to pull extremely HARD up and over onto exciting holds to the chains. Wow!

Protection

All bolts. Possibly small nuts and tcu's for the beginning and between bolts 5 and 6 if you are not feeling up to it.

Photos

Ales Kobrle
San Jose
  5.12b/c
Ales Kobrle   San Jose
  5.12b/c
Really nice 11c/d climb up to last bolt. Then sequencing crimpy finish crux through roof.
On the lip of the roof was nice positive hold for left hand, which broke under me when I was standing on it. Now it feels like 12b/c, because it was a key hold and foot for me to pass the roof for the first time. After that it took me some time to find a different sequence which is way harder. Jul 8, 2017
The First Ascent was done by Dave Bingham and Tedd Thompson Sep 17, 2013
peachy spohn  
 
Super de Duper! Great moves on great rock. One of the best .12s I did here. You should clip the first two with long slings and then skip the first on the arete/face, or just back clean the first on the traverse to reduce the drag. But there really wasn't a problem using long slings. Jun 25, 2013
James Yates
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a/b
James Yates   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a/b
I did Gemini on Saturday and Fat Lip on Sunday, and Fat Lip felt much harder than Gemini, perhaps a letter grade harder. I felt like the flake transitions toward the top were not trivial and the rest below the roof was marginal. The crux is definitely pulling the roof on decent crimps, but the moves are very big and the feet are way under the roof. Clipping the bolt at the roof and pulling the crux moves are definitely height-dependent. This climb is very good and is really on you for the last 30 ft. A pretty stout 12a, IMHO. Jun 17, 2013
..clipping the last bolt at the roof - a critical toe hook makes this a breeze as I recall. Otherwise -suffer! Jun 20, 2011
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.12a
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.12a
A must do City sport climb! Start in a tiny seam on two small finger locks until you can reach the jugs. Throw some long runners in at the ledge traverse and fly up the crack. As soon as the crack runs out you're on bomber jugs and crimps until you get high and right. Your feet will run out and you'll have to make two back-to-back tricky transitions between awesome flakes. These moves alone give it four stars. The crux is obviously pulling the roof, but it actually would be really easy if you weren't already pumped. Clip the bolt at the roof before going over. The trick is to get high feet over the roof, and there you have it. So fun!!! Sep 13, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Ridicuously hard to clip the last bolt for me (5'8") before entering the crux. Jun 25, 2009
Dave Budge
North Slope of the Wrangells
 
Dave Budge   North Slope of the Wrangells
 
One of the funnest routes in the City. Get ready for that last bouldery move at the finish. Take your time. If you cruise the lower section then you've got the technique to do the top problem without having to pull super hard. You can check out the move and retreat back down to the rest. Awesome. Oct 18, 2005

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