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Routes in Copperhead Boulder

Arete V1 5
Bear Hug V8 7B
Copperhead V9 7C
Johnny's Mantle V7-8 7B
Lances Dihedral V6 7A
Manly Arete V6 7A
Rails V1 5
Secret Garden Arete V2 5+
Shorty V0 4
Shothole Arete V8 7B
Slab V0 4
Slab 2 V0 4
Slab 3 V0 4
Twisted V4 6B
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 4,048 total, 26/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The slightly overhanging copper colored face on your right as you walk into the Secret Garden. It's to the right of the Manly Arete and left of Lance's. The boulder is named for this problem. Start with a left sidepull and a right crimp. Do one hard move to a bad crimper then punch it to the bigger holds. The line is very obvious. I believe there is a sit start variation that goes around V13.

Protection

Not very high

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Boone Speed first ascended this classic power bloc in fall/winter 1994 and originally graded it V11. Today it is considered "entry level" V10, even with the foothold polish. Please clean your boots before attempting this problem and any of the others on this boulder. Many of the adjacent climbs have been polished by tiny pieces of dirt and rock being rubbed into the footholds. This problem is probably the most tried V10 in the state of Utah, rivaled perhaps only by a few in Joe's Valley. It is certainly the most accessible.

I believe Klem Loskot was the first to flash the problem during a one day visit to the Secret Garden in the early 2000's, the same day he absolutely demolished almost all of the hard problems in the area. On the same day he flashed Shingles (V9), Mr. Mom (V10) and Bully (V11/12). The only problem he missed the flash on was All Thumbs (V10), which he did in a couple of tries. Ben Moon is another famous climber to flash Copperhead, and he apparently did it with ease and making it look easier than people who had climbed it multiple times. Dec 10, 2013