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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Southern Wasatch
> American Fork C…
> Hell Area
> El Diablo Wall
El Diablo
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 50
votes
Routes in El Diablo Wall
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Big G, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Body Count S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cop Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dead Souls S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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El Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gateway, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ghost White S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Half Acre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heck S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'll Be Damned S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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I'll Take Black S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Inferno S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Little G' S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Malvado S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Old Feller S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Optimist, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Perdition S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Power Junkie S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Purgatory S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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San Miguel S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Satanism and Sports S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Soul Fission S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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White Noise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Txavo Vales |
| Page Views: | 6,115 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Neal Carroll on Oct 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
This is a great route...and I think an American Fork classic. I've included this route as modified because I want to play by the rules of this site...and any route with a hold commonly referred to as "The Sika Pocket" is going to have to be suspect.
Anyway, this route is 8 or so routes in from the right on the El Diablo Wall and shares the start with another classic "Malvado" (13a)...ask a local for beta. Another point of reference is the route "Inferno" (13b), which is one route to the left.
Start with the first bolt pre clipped (don't be confused by the smattering of old bolts...the bomber glue-ins are the only bolts used for this route...unless you're doggin') do a hard move into a left hand undercling, throw up to a pocket...then you're off to the races. The routes split at their respective third bolts, each clipped from the "sika pocket". The difficulties end here for "El Diablo"...but many folks pump off on the ensuing 11+ climbing due to the pump and/or nerves associated with doing your first "hard" route. I'd know...
The grading of this route is settling in around 5.12d.
Anyway, this route is 8 or so routes in from the right on the El Diablo Wall and shares the start with another classic "Malvado" (13a)...ask a local for beta. Another point of reference is the route "Inferno" (13b), which is one route to the left.
Start with the first bolt pre clipped (don't be confused by the smattering of old bolts...the bomber glue-ins are the only bolts used for this route...unless you're doggin') do a hard move into a left hand undercling, throw up to a pocket...then you're off to the races. The routes split at their respective third bolts, each clipped from the "sika pocket". The difficulties end here for "El Diablo"...but many folks pump off on the ensuing 11+ climbing due to the pump and/or nerves associated with doing your first "hard" route. I'd know...
The grading of this route is settling in around 5.12d.
4 Comments