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The Great Chimney

5.6, Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 1.7 from 17 votes
FA: Old timers
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Mt Olympus > N Summit

Description

This route is a good adventure route. There are no particular sections of brilliant climbing, however the route in its entirety is good. Know how to climb chimneys, and you'll send easily. There isn't a need to lug any big cams up there, as there are gear possibilities everywhere.Iv'e heard this route is good in March, as a consolidated snow climb.You can rap the route via multiple sections of bomber stainless steel anchors. Thanks goes out to whomever drilled those bolts!

-tda

Protection

Bring a small free rack, and long slings.Only on rope is needed to rappel the routeMake sure to bring small to medium nuts, there are tons of spots for stoppers.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start early
[Hide Photo] Start early
The air up there--on the summit of TGC
[Hide Photo] The air up there--on the summit of TGC
A full adventure day awaits ye....
[Hide Photo] A full adventure day awaits ye....
Bonus of the long, wild approach
[Hide Photo] Bonus of the long, wild approach
On the upper reaches of the two hour approach
[Hide Photo] On the upper reaches of the two hour approach
Some of the true chimneying sections
[Hide Photo] Some of the true chimneying sections
Get down with the wideness
[Hide Photo] Get down with the wideness
Following the last pitch.
[Hide Photo] Following the last pitch.
New stainless rappel anchor.
[Hide Photo] New stainless rappel anchor.
Old buttonhead rappel anchor that took very little effort with a pry bar to remove.
[Hide Photo] Old buttonhead rappel anchor that took very little effort with a pry bar to remove.
The Great Chimney in winter conditions. Expect difficulties up to M6 in the chimney.
[Hide Photo] The Great Chimney in winter conditions. Expect difficulties up to M6 in the chimney.
This is one of the lower pitches of The Great Chimney.
[Hide Photo] This is one of the lower pitches of The Great Chimney.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tenesmus
 
[Hide Comment] Its fun to finish on Kamp's Ridge. Sep 25, 2005
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Whomever has cut out the approach trail: THANK YOU!!! We soloed the first pitch without realizing it. We didn't realize this until we reached a bolted rap anchor (dangerous "American triangle"). We had heard that you can rap the whole route with one rope, but the first two pitches either don't have enough rap anchors, or we missed them. As for the route itself, the pitches actually are not really long as the guidebook describes. The climbing isn't difficult and not really classic. Pro is pretty good. The third pitch was probably the best. The fourth (last) had lots of loose looking blocks so we climbed a wide crack over a small roof to the left of the main line (This variation was really fun). Send me an email if you want any beta. Jul 15, 2007
ddriver
SLC
 
[Hide Comment] Do this route in late March or April with consolidated snow and its an excellent climb. Approach and descent are also good with snow. Sep 10, 2009
Nick B
[Hide Comment] Has anyone tried this as a winter mixed climb? Was wondering what the snow and ice conditions would be like in December through February. Oct 13, 2012
Ben Folsom
[Hide Comment] Nick, yes, the great chimney in the right conditions can be a good ice/winter climb. Like ddriver said, probably better in march or april when snow conditions are consolidated. I have done it in the winter before, and had great sections of mixed ice and rock. Be cautious of avalanche conditions, the approach and climb are exposed to avalanche hazard. Oct 15, 2012
Derek DeBruin
[Hide Comment] As of 3 July 2020, rappels have been augmented. All 5 rappel anchors now feature either one older 3/8" plated bolt and one new 3/8" stainless bolt or two new 3/8" stainless bolts. Rap anchors are also equipped with chain and links/rings.

Old rap bolt: mountainproject.com//photo/…
New stainless rap anchor: mountainproject.com//photo/… Jul 4, 2020
Derek DeBruin
[Hide Comment] Summer:
Goes in 5 or so pitches with scrambles/ledges in between.
Crux is the penultimate pitch, and depending on how much loose rock is present feels more like 5.8 in the summer (or M5/M6 in the winter).
BD #4 could be placed a couple times but not required.
Can continue up the ridge via Kamp's Ridge.

Winter:
As a winter climb there is typically little ice on the route (not worth bringing screws).
As noted above, better after mid-winter in March/April when snow is consolidated and makes for easier booting.
Entire approach gully is exposed to avalanche hazard; check the Utah Avalanche Center forecast.
Descent via Memorial Couloir (the backside of the ridge) is also exposed to avalanche hazard.
Climb itself is exposed to spin drift, especially if windy or first sun after recent snow.

Descent:
Not sure what stainless rappel anchors are referenced in the description; existing ones were plated, in poor condition, and updated July 2020.
Can descend via the Memorial Couloir on the backside of ridge (short downclimb or shenanigans to access couloir).
To rappel, a 70m rope doesn't quite do the job on the 2nd and 3rd rappels so downclimbing, knot block, tag line, etc. are needed. Jul 4, 2020