PRINT: Rock Climb Dirty Rotten Horror, Wasatch Range

Dirty Rotten Horror

5.10b, Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 25 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Parley's Canyon > Riptide Wall

Description

Dirty Rotten Horror climbs the corner just right of Astroprojection. Either start at the base on the road or up on a ledge. The first few moves are easy, but the climbing begins at a couple of fantastic pockets. Involves some strenuous liebacking and some fun reaches. Smear those footholds...the rock is surprisingly grippy. Higher up on the route avoid pulling on suspect horns, they aren't needed anyway. Set up a trad anchor at the top, curving to the right; or angle left to the anchors of Astroprojection. We used this climb as an exit route at the end of the day.

Protection

We toproped this climb using the anchors of Astroprojection. If trad leading, I'd suggest a set of stoppers and microcams, though there are some placements for large gear. I'd be wary of slinging the horns for which this climb may be named.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Expect a bit of this on this line...

Astroprojection climbs the face, Dirty Rotten Horror climbs the inside corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
St George

Tried to lead this today, and I didn't like the first three pieces I placed, so I backed off. Save it for another day. Apr 9, 2006

Tea	[Hide Comment] fun moves laying back to grab the bucket at the roof. Gear does look a little thin and flaring though. Jun 7, 2006

zoso	[Hide Comment] Good place to practice easy aid solo. Jan 29, 2009

Daniel Winder

There are about 4 bolts on this route now. Also, the anchor bolts have multiplied. Nov 29, 2012

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT

See Jazz the Glass. Nov 29, 2012

Jacob McLaws

Is rapping down from Astroprojection ok for this route? Then using Astro for top roping? Jun 24, 2013

zoso	[Hide Comment] Well let's see.... You could: 1. Try reading the route description, or 2. Note where the anchors on Astroprojection are, surmise the fall line from them (remembering that gravity pulls things straight down), and maybe set a directional if needed. Jun 24, 2013

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10b

For a laugh go read the comments on Jazz the Glass (the bolted line on the lip of the arete).

I looked at the line and read the comments and decided to go for the lead. Glad I did! I thought the movement was thoughtful and exciting, the gear finicky but sufficient, and the line obvious. I was able to get a purple and yellow Metolius in while hanging from the bucket-holds on the roof which helped me to feel secure pulling up into the next section.

I didn't clip the bolts on Jazz the Glass, I felt like it would've done awkward things with the rope and the gear seamed sufficient for my taste.

Gear wise doubles in micro cams will serve you well and then singles up to a #1 camalot. My critical pieces were two purple and a yellow Metolius micro cams. I placed one small brass offset nut as well.

Thought this was a super fun line! I liked it as much or more than its more popular trad-neighbor to the right, though it was a touch bolder; 3 stars within the context of Parley's. Mar 20, 2017

greggrylls
Salt Lake City

5.10b

Sam is spot on. Fun face climbing, finger locks, laybacks, and exposed stemming, Excellent! This climb has cleaned up and the only flakes are topping out when it's less steep. I liked having a #2 C4 or equivalent sized dual axle cam for the pocket before the first crux. Can place it fully open in the pocket as a nut or at the lip cammed. Both placements look kind of funky but made me feel more comfortable about launching into the layback above. A double set of micros to .3 and singles to #2 will sew this up nicely.

IDK why people are complaining about the gear! You can get bomber nuts and a nest of small cams to protect the crux. The crack is a bit dirty so I opted for more pieces. An excellent and very approachable lead IMO.

.1 and .2 sized cams seemed like the money sizes on this climb. Nov 10, 2018