[Hide Comment] I forgot to mention the crux is protected by a bong piton that could be backed up with a cam. It looks fine, but some may be spooked by it. Sep 5, 2005

[Hide Comment] Just did it again. Thanks to the FA's - Ron Olsen and friends really did a great service to us by putting up this one. Apr 23, 2006

[Hide Comment] I've lobbed onto that bong - it held. What a great route. Feb 6, 2007

[Hide Comment] blabble...bobble...bepopple...mmmmmmm....brrrrrr.....

One of my favorites! Especially in the fall when it is one of the last routes to get sun in the area! Nov 6, 2007

[Hide Comment] Fun route, a little scary, and harder than its southward classic 10c neighbor Goodro's, most likely because I felt gear was harder to place and get to sit right. One fixed piton is available after traversing back right to the corner, and the old bong piton still appears, well, old and rusted but good enough. Aug 5, 2010

[Hide Comment] A little trickier than Goodros, particularly the gear, but it's all there. Awesome route that makes you think and stick with it. Apr 4, 2012

[Hide Comment] Nice route, the whole thing goes with nuts if you want to get a feel for how it was back in the day! Aug 16, 2012

[Hide Comment] Sometimes, but not always, there is a nest of hornets a quarter up the route... Jun 7, 2013

[Hide Comment] I found the crux to be the traverse down low -- pretty committing, thin moves a little ways out from gear. Once you get to the piton you're golden, but there isn't much for gear between the initial crack and the pin. Mar 16, 2014

[Hide Comment] I took a pretty bad fall while attempting to reach the first pin, which slammed me into the ramp on this one. Ended up going to the emergency room since I got knocked unconscious.. I thought I was pretty solid at the grade, but my mental/gear placing game on the difficult to protect traverse was not up to par. Placed a bad .4 and it ripped when I fell trying to make it to the pin.

Finally came back for this one on lead and found a Black Totem (could get a small nut in here too) for the start of the traverse and the #2 pod (Thanks for the Beta Annie Ashenfelter!) at the end of the traverse before you start your moves up to the pin makes this section significantly safer.

Awesome route, just approached it with arrogance that I could runnout the traverse with no pro and I ended up panicing pumped out and placed a terrible cam. For me, worth getting all the gear you can on the traverse for this one! Climb safe! Jul 15, 2016

[Hide Comment] Sorry to hear Crag. I've always considered that traverse the crux of the route. The high nut on maybe a long sling is a good idea and after the traverse you can place a hand size cam in one of the pods (again probably on a long sling). A 0.5 camalot could also be placed at the creaky undercling flake but wouldn't want to take much of a fall on that! Oct 11, 2016

[Hide Comment] That is a bummer. I've always used offset HB's for this. The smaller aluminum one locks in tight right before the traverse and you can place it from the wrist-lock/hand jam. You can also place something a little higher but its a bit harder to finagle. Offsets seem to lock in best on this pitch in general. Oct 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] Beta alert because it might save someone a ledge deck: as others mentioned, I found a good nut high before the traverse (DMM offset #7) and then at the end of the leftward travers you are rewarded with a perfect parallel slot for a #2 which protects the moves up to the pin. Sep 22, 2021

[Hide Comment] I would take more gear than what is recommended… DMM offsets came in clutch, used 2 .3s, 2 .4s, 2 #2s, .75, and backed up the second piton with a #1. You could definitely place a #3 up higher, but I didn’t bring one. Overall, killer route! Thought it was a bit easier than Goodros. Jun 15, 2022

[Hide Comment] Bong piton is gone. My partner ripped it out. Jul 31, 2024