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The Pygmies Got Stoned

5.10a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 321 votes
FA: Dan Sperlock, 1989
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Elephant Rock > Elephant Rock - East
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

This sport climb starts to the right of Wheat Thin. You can start from the upper ledge or from the dirt. Well protected face and slab climbing is the name of the game. A good climb to do while waiting in line for the nearby trad classics. Enjoyable moves and position...

Protection

Draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jonny on The Pygmies Got Stoned. 7/19/16.
[Hide Photo] Jonny on The Pygmies Got Stoned. 7/19/16.
Henry Faust on the anchors of Pygmies Got Stoned. 9 bolts to chain anchors
[Hide Photo] Henry Faust on the anchors of Pygmies Got Stoned. 9 bolts to chain anchors
Enjoying the last sun of the day...
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the last sun of the day...
The thin section of bullet, pink granite. Photo by Crosby C.
[Hide Photo] The thin section of bullet, pink granite. Photo by Crosby C.
The Pygmies Got Stoned
[Hide Photo] The Pygmies Got Stoned
slaabb
[Hide Photo] slaabb
Wyatt copping a rest
[Hide Photo] Wyatt copping a rest
Beautiful shot of Sarah Taylor and the right side of the route.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful shot of Sarah Taylor and the right side of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] I believe 9 draws plus two for the anchors. A high first bolt and well-spaced bolts in the easier ground. I believe between 2 and 3 was the worst, but not runout. A really nice line with great moves. The brown face in the middle just keeps coming at you. Would get 4 stars if the climbing was like that all the way. The finish almost spat me off as I was clipping the chains. Well worth climbing. Sep 11, 2006
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] If you like thin face climbing you'll like this one. A good route that is probably harder than it looks. Jul 15, 2008
ktmt
Missoula, MT
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] One of the few routes I've done at the City that seemed overclimbed: polished, greasy. Maybe it was just the day, but felt stiff for the grade. I won't rush back to it. Nov 15, 2008
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun lead. The middle slab has some technical moves with crimper edge hand holds and makes you think. Jun 7, 2009
Smith -
Central, NJ
 
[Hide Comment] Precise smears and crimpy side pulls on the right move you through the crux. Jun 12, 2009
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Fun. Aug 24, 2010
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
5.10b
[Hide Comment] Very well protected by City of Rocks standards. Good slab climbing, maybe slightly more difficult than the slab on Just Say No. Jul 20, 2015
Roy Suggett
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Wish I had a wrench with me...many spinning hangers. Someone might want to give those a tightening. Sep 28, 2015
[Hide Comment] very nice! time for replacement bolts, I think. anchor is due for sure Jul 3, 2016
Nate Liles
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Replaced original hardware in 2017 with 1/2" SS in cooperation with the NPS, Climbing Resource Advisory Group (CRAG) and the ASCA. Tools provided by The Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Oct 23, 2017
Matt Chan
Denver
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The movement and direction is a little contrived by the bolt line near the top. All in all, very fun and safe route up good edges. Aug 23, 2018
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Excellent movement and perfect rock. May 5, 2019
Sam M
Portland, OR
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Nice climb that suffers from a contrived finish. I found it a little stiff compared to other city 10a's but maybe it just has a cryptic crux sequence Jul 30, 2019