PRINT: Rock Climb Ream Crack, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Ream Crack

5.7+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes
FA: Ream and Ream
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Sail

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This is the line just right of Flying Dutchman. Some forestry managment skills come in handy.

Protection

not really sure...take it all!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT

With the exception of Flying Dutchman, this is the best route on the wall, IMO. Liebacking those thin flakes at 5.7 is cool. I can't think of many 5.7 better than the middle section. Unfortunately, it feels a little shortlived. The chimney at the bottom is casual. I think easier than the 5.6 chimney after the trough on standard thumb. As for the rack, take an assortment up to #3 camalot with extra 1" to 2" sized pieces. Lotsa slings. Climbing past the trees is not bothersome at all. May 31, 2010

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT

The trees come in handy, as did a 3.5 and 4 camalot for the awkward grovel at the start. One big cam may be sufficient but I don't think a three would of worked for me. Nov 12, 2011

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT

5.8

This route should be done more often. It would definitely benefit from a bit more traffic, but is in stellar shape as is. You'll be glad the trees are there, and at one point my partner was stemming between two tree trunks. Classic! Sep 4, 2013

Alec L

5.7+

This thing is a lot better than it looks... and it looks pretty crappy from the base! Pretty sustained, varied, well-protected climbing. Lieback flake is dope! Trees don't get in the way at all. I'll knock off a couple stars for the dirty start and grainy rock up top, but... you can't really avoid the latter up at the Sail. Dec 6, 2020

Steve Bott

5.8

This is a really good route, and the hike isn't bad, with the new trail. Old school 5.7++. Definitely tape up. I did it with one set of cams to 4, but wished I had more :-) It sews up. Slung horn at the top. Nov 13, 2021

Mike O

5.8

Pay no mind to the 1 star ratings bringing the average down (and zero star rating in the granite guide). This is a really fun pitch, some kitty litter at the top notwithstanding. Maybe it's cleaned up with time? The rest of the route is quite clean, varied, and very protectable with a standard rack (I found some offset nuts really useful as well). Pack a 4 if the quasi-offwidth at the start unnerves you and extras 1-2 to really sew it up. If you've made the hike to the Sail anyways, get on this route. If you're looking specifically for a quality 5.8 pitch, make the hike for this route. Apr 19, 2022