Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Tom Spencer, Bob Irvine, Ben Peterson 1959
Page Views: 1,459 total · 7/month
Shared By: philfell on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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Start in the second dihedrial right on the Center Thumb. Follow off-widths/chimneys to the top of the Thumb. The pitches stay consistant most of the way through the climb, with plenty of ledges along the way to belay at. To me it felt way harder than 5.7. When I think of 5.7 chimney I think of Cresent Crack or Ellesworth/McQuarrie, this climb felt more like four pitches of the Lowe Blow on the Egg. On every pitch I placed a 3, 4, 4.5, and 5 camalot and I wish I had more. Occasonially I found some smaller gear, but most of the small placements weren't that good because of loose flakes or poor rock. Leave anything smaller than .5 at home and go heavey on the big stuff.

Be very carefull of loose rock, because there is a ton of it. We sent down plenty of rocks big enough to take you out, and pulling onto ledges was very scary because of all the loose stuff. I wouldn't recommend this route, there are far better routes up there. Don't be fooled by the 5.7 rating this is a serious route due to no fixed gear (except for an old soft iron ring that was about to fall out) long physical off-width sections and huge amounts of loose rocks.


All the big stuff you can carry.


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