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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Tom Spencer, Bob Irvine, Ben Peterson 1959
Page Views: 828 total, 5/month
Shared By: philfell on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Start in the second dihedrial right on the Center Thumb. Follow off-widths/chimneys to the top of the Thumb. The pitches stay consistant most of the way through the climb, with plenty of ledges along the way to belay at. To me it felt way harder than 5.7. When I think of 5.7 chimney I think of Cresent Crack or Ellesworth/McQuarrie, this climb felt more like four pitches of the Lowe Blow on the Egg. On every pitch I placed a 3, 4, 4.5, and 5 camalot and I wish I had more. Occasonially I found some smaller gear, but most of the small placements weren't that good because of loose flakes or poor rock. Leave anything smaller than .5 at home and go heavey on the big stuff.

Be very carefull of loose rock, because there is a ton of it. We sent down plenty of rocks big enough to take you out, and pulling onto ledges was very scary because of all the loose stuff. I wouldn't recommend this route, there are far better routes up there. Don't be fooled by the 5.7 rating this is a serious route due to no fixed gear (except for an old soft iron ring that was about to fall out) long physical off-width sections and huge amounts of loose rocks.


All the big stuff you can carry.


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