PRINT: Rock Climb Sumatra, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Sumatra

5.10, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 1.9 from 17 votes
FA: Jame Garrett, Tyler Phillips, Franziska Garrett 2005
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Coal Pit Buttress

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.

Description

This route is just one of the additional fun slab routes added this year to the largely previously ignored Coalpit Buttress.

Coalpit Buttress includes everything between Triangle Wall and Pentapitch area. Approach as for Stiffler's Mom or Pentapitch. Start as for PRECIOUS LOST. This is the next slab to the east of Endless Torment. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.

Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.
Pitch #2: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.
Pitch #3: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.
Pitch #4: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.

One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the pitch #5 of Stifflers Mom or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of PRECIOUS LOST.

Protection

QDs and a good assortment of nuts, TCUs, and cams to #3

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kev sending the best pitch of Sumatra.

22 - Sumatra
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23 - Precious Lost
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BLACK LINE Drawn in - From anchors at top of pitch two on Sumatra I went right into the left facing corner system for two more pitches.

22 - Sumatra 23 - Precious Lost BLACK LINE Drawn in - From anchors at top of pitch two on Sumatra I went right into the left facing corner system for two more pitches.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

Why not post the info? Then all these sweet new lines will get climbed, cleaned, and grades confirmed! Oh yeah!! Aug 25, 2005

Moritz B.

We linked this line today with Stiffler´s Mom.
These are just my thoughts on the route:
First Pitch:
Fun slab climbing. A little dirty on certain spots. If you climb the natural way of the line (a little to the left) it doesn´t feel like 10+ and you can still clip all the bolts. The bolt line is kind of forced in the middle of the slab. That section might be 10+ but again - why climb it just to make it hard?
Second Pitch:
Lots of bushes and trees. Better forget about that pitch.
Third Pitch:
Fun Slab climbing. The crux is pretty tricky. Don´t go too far to the left on that rail! The runout after the last bolt can be avoided by placing a bomber blue/purple offset Metolius cam.
Fourth Pitch:
A lot of sand, trees etc.

All in all the first and the third pitch are O.K.
As a one-time-link up with Stiffler´s Mom it was fun though! Jun 8, 2014

Tanner Josey
Hailey, ID

At the top of pitch two I traversed right bypassing the bolts above and into the dirty left facing corner. Climbed the corner for two more pitches passing large trees with cord. The corner was dirty, loose, and full of bushes making it super adventurous 5.10ish trad climbing. Super fun slab moves, runout sections above small gear, and dirty corner climbing. Anyone ever done this corner? Aug 25, 2019

Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT

5.10

Tanner, if you were passing cord on trees it's highly plausible its been climbed before. Aug 26, 2019

Tanner Josey
Hailey, ID

I imagine it has been climbed before, Tyler. Seemed very old school, but judging by how dirty and vegetated it was it felt like it hasn't seen an accent in a long time, if ever. The cords on the trees also seemed to be part of the rap line. Just wanted to put it out there to see if anyone else has been on it as the line is not in Granite Guide or on MP. Aug 26, 2019

Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT

5.10

Hmm, having a hard time telling where your talking about Tanner. Got a pic with a line on it? Aug 27, 2019