[Hide Comment] The first chance to place pro on this route is right at the coffin zone. Climb it on toprope or be sure your insurance is paid in full. Adding just one bolt to this route would make it safe, sane, and fun. Aug 15, 2005

[Hide Comment] Not all climbs need to be safe sane and fun. Plenty of those around. Aug 16, 2005

[Hide Comment] Okay, Ken, I'll put this in simple terms, so you can understand it. The coffin zone means that if you fall before you get your first piece of gear in this route, you will probably die. And that's dangerous, in anyone's book.My comment is beta on the route. You fall, you probably die. It's a fact. Hence the reason for "X" ratings.

And no one, not you, not Chris freaking Sharma, is going to dictate how I'm going to climb a route. If I feel like bolting it, I'll bolt it. You want to yank the bolt, yank the bolt. In the mean time, stop telling everyone what to think. Aug 16, 2005

[Hide Comment] Ken what if a teenage kid decides to climb this and falls before they get good gear in and dies. In the name of saftey for the kids of Salt Lake add the bolt.

On a different note I heard Drew was talking about maybe adding a bolt here and there to some of his older/bolder routes. I think this is one of his routes. If some bolts start appearing on his routes they might be placed by him. Although I think he may have decided not to do this. Aug 16, 2005

[Hide Comment] I would disagree, Phil. Plenty of good routes that beg to be climbed. Penetentiary Wall is not an area where kids are goofing around learning to climb. A tragedy with a kid would be terrible. Unfortunately, us bolting every route out there won't save the lives of the dumb ones. Whereas, I would love to lead this route, with a bolt, I would rather wait until I have the cajones (sp) to do it the way it is.

P.S. Since everyone has been getting insulted. Please don't. Aug 16, 2005

[Hide Comment] Nate, I was making a joke. Sorry it didn't come off that way to all. Aug 17, 2005

[Hide Comment] Why not add the bolt as an option for those who want to use it? Those climbers like Zed who prefer to climb the route the way the first ascensionist did it could do so by simply not clipping in to it. That way, everybody's happy. Jul 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] Nice troll.

I'll bite though. You know the drill around here, adding bolts to an existing line will only lead to having them chopped within hours and a shitstorm on the intardweb. It doesn't matter if it's 5.6 or out of most people's league. It doesn't matter how bad we'd all like to climb the route but feel like we can't do it safely.

But just in case you think there's a chance of getting things your way, let me suggest the right approach:
1. Get in touch with Drew, ask him what he thinks. Get shut down.
2. Assuming he's all about it, get the opinion of the "community", meaning start the 133rd debate about the FA's right on their lines once they've been out for years. Get shut down.
3. If that doesn't happen (it will) and the "community" is OK with retrobolting (it won't) get a concensus on number/location of the bolts and go up there with Drew to be certain not to screw up. Retrobolt. Succeed.
4. Your bolts are removed the very next night before you even get a chance to brownpoint the line on TR. Fail.

Sounds fun? Just get stronger and acquire a larger sack, that's by far the best option. Jul 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] Leave the route alone!! All this talk of adding bolts to previously bold routes is a whole bunch of bullshit. If you don't like it, stay in the gym where you belong. Jul 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] Yeah let's just bolt every square inch of rock in the world so "everybody" has the option to climb any inch of rock safely and in any style they so choose. Then we need to put wheelchair access up these cliffs as the handicap should not be left out, right..? It wouldn't be fair...
Are you people who think they need every climb safe for themselves just plain nuts!! You must be!! Get a clue people!! Not all routes where put up with you in mind and nor should they be. Is life equal, fair, and safe for all? NO it's not, so why should climbing be any different? There is plenty of rock out there for you to find and bolt however you want. Just keep it out the Cottonwood canyons please!!! Sounds like you people who need everything safe should stay in the gym. They keep it safe enough for you there. Plenty of bolts for all... I think you people come across as very selfish. You don't have to be able to lead and or climb everything. Kind of like real life. We don't always get what we want do we... Jul 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] This route actually protects reasonably well. A red c3 whose stem will be a bit sub-horizontal fits nicely in a pod about 12 feet up. There is even a solid stance to place it from. Next piece 8 feet up or so is a small but solid brass nut. Then the crux is executed and another solid finger sized nut protects just before Life Sentence joins in from the left. In addition, if one wishes, double rope technique can be used to climb up and set and clip a high nut on LS, and then down climb to the belay and traverse over right to begin the start of Jack The Ripper. Also, the finish is old school 10a not 5.8. This is a beautiful and difficult route. Jul 28, 2010

[Hide Comment] It's just climbing. If you feel bold, lead it. If not, I suggest running up Sticky Zipper and setting up a top-rope. Not sure why all the fuss. Feb 4, 2011