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Sticky Zipper

5.9+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 12 votes
FA: Drew Bedford, Kevin Gheen 1985
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Penitentiary Wall

Description

This climbs the crack a foot off the arete that is left of Climb and Punishment. In other words, the west facing crack on the right arete of the Life Sentence slab. This line is contrived, as you can make it a lot easier than 5.9+, by using the Climb and Punishment face. If you avoid that face, it might be a 5.9-, but the difficulty comes from trying to avoid that face. No, just kidding. It is funner if you don't use the face.

Protection

There will be slings around the horn up top. The route protects with a standard rack, nothing larger than a #2 Camalot.