Type: Aid, 20 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 1,301 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Aug 8, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


On the creekside of the Town Drunk Boulder (the balanced one that you can see from the road) is the line. Make a hook move to the first bolt, two more bolts out to the roof, hook past the lip, follow three more bolts to the top.

This is a great place to practice aid climbing. The bolts are bomber, as are both hook placements. Approach time of 2 minutes.


Six quickdraws and a skyhook. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top, so you can bring gear for the anchor as well.


Ok. Normally...I think these kind of routes need to be chopped as soon as they apear. very unnecesary to bolt things for the sake of a "bolted practice aid ladder" what is this 1969?...c1? not even close...A0 is more like it young man. However...being that the roof aid ladder in the gate boulders was destroyed in the "mining"a few years back....maybe a new dangle and thrash practice boulder is ok? Location for this is pretty nice also....but again. begs the question "is this needed?" There are plenty of C1 aid leads that you could get some REAL practice on, and besides. what does dangling from bolts really practice for anyway? I guess every area "needs" a ONE of these....now we have a few Aug 14, 2005
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
Oh please, quit trying to make an issue out of a few "unneccessary bolts".(What bolt is REALLY NECESSARY?)The tourists seemed to enjoy watching us dangle over the creek. I know I enjoyed dangling.For a beginning roof aider, this route is ideal.Yeah, there's some sport routes that are A0-able (Black Monday, Storm Mtn Overhang)...but if I go to the S-curves for a pump, I don't wanna wait an hour for some aid Gumbies to get done.It's outta the way. It's not worthy of free climbing.Every aid climber has to start somewhere.Kudos to the bolter. Aug 17, 2005
In fact, the hangers do glimmer when you drive by, that is how I spotted it the first time! It's a great 20 foot route!! Bolt away!!!! By the way REALLY liked the Stifflers mom rig you boys set up...now that's a slick ass contribution to the south side independents projects!!!BRAVO!! Aug 17, 2005
Contrive it even more than it is? Is that possible? Haha...just kidding, totally kidding. It's fine...dangle and thrash away. Gotta learn to stand in aiders some how I Suppose. (I used to hook around the outside of my apartment building!) Aug 21, 2005
cdawg lion
cdawg lion   BeaUTAHfull
1 piece chain anchor with 2 rusty bolts going through it. it still works, but just clip it and walk off. Apr 4, 2017