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Littlefoot
5.11a,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 20
votes
FA: Taylor, Dolf, Otto
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Pentapitch Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the
SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
After you clear the roof on Sasquatch, step right, and I mean STEP. There is a nice chickenhead there, and your first clip. Here is where the fun begins. Very thin moves and minute crystals lead to a tenuous second clip. A little bit of rightward movement will allow the climbing to easxe up to the flake with the pin. From here the climbing eases to a hard 9 easy 10, but still holds your attention, with a bit more space between the pin, the bolt, and the anchors. A very enjoyable route, not intended to be climbed on hot muggy days, like today.
Protection
Littlefoot shares the beginning with Sasquatch, so bring your Sasquatch gear. It also shares the anchors. It has 3 bolts and a pin of it's own.
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Salt Lake City, UT
SLC, UT