PRINT: Rock Climb Evening Falls, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Evening Falls

5.10a, Trad, 180 ft (55 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 43 votes
FA: Chris Begue and Kirsten Davis (1988)
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Great White Icicle Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

From the top of the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs, angle up and right on the slab. Follow the bolt line slightly left and then head for the crack to the right which leads to the large tree.

The guide book notes that there are two bolts for a rappel station at the tree, but the rappel station is simply webbing around the tree. Bring some webbing in case the ones up there look suspect. Rappel down to the double bolts on the route. It might be good to have some extra webbing at the bolts also. Rappel from the bolts to the top of the second pitch of Daddy Long Legs where there are rap rings. From there rappel down the 11's to the bushy gully.

Protection

This climb protects with a pin and six bolts on the slab and with a regular rack in the crack at the top of the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jmo climbing the crack

Final crack section

Maura Hahnenberger climbing the brushy but really nice crack at the top of Evening Falls.

From the top of Evening Falls

Maura Hahnenberger climbing the slab leading to the final crack on Evening Falls.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Erin Chamberlain

5.10a

The third bolt is a 1/4" and didn't look that good to me, but there is a nice crack just to the left which protects well. Jul 30, 2005

Nathan Fisher
St George

5.10a R

A very fun route that needs to have its bolts replaced. Of the 6 bolts, 2 are a midway anchor. I felt this was runout after the last bolt, but before the crack. The crack adds a nice change of pace to a good slab route. May 13, 2006

Ben Folsom

I thought this was a nice pitch. As of June 2008 it seems like all but one bolt has been replaced and the belay anchors as well. Don't know who did it, but thanks. Jun 25, 2008

triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10a

Would be a classic in it's own if the crack gets cleaned up.. Excellent slab moves with good crack climbing thrown in. Didn't find any pins to clip though. Bolts and gear only. Link with DLL and you got a classic for sure! Jul 29, 2009

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT

There are still two pins on this route, both of which look to be from the mid-16th century.

The crack at the top is pretty vegetated and not that great. Crux follows the last bolt. Jun 24, 2011

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT

The upper crack climbed well and clean the other day. Yes there is some foliage, but does it detract from the experience? I think not. The jams are free of the greenery which is what matters. Excellent pitch! Jun 3, 2012

Kyle Goupil
Salt Lake City

5.10b PG13

Very engaging lead for sure. Fun moves on good granite. I would say that this route is PG-13 given the fall potential before getting to the rap anchors halfway up the pitch, and the fall potential before gaining the ledge to the crack.

Overall good route! Must do if you are on top of Daddy Long Legs. Jun 25, 2017

Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT

5.10a PG13

Great pitch that needs more action! Flows perfectly with daddy long legs. Aug 10, 2019

Jeremy McCormick
salt lake city

5.9+

Linked with daddy long legs I think this is a three pitch 4 star classic. If barefoot in Barbados is 10a and endless torment is 10b then this route feels very soft. Wouldn’t let the “pg” rating deter you either. Doesn’t seem any worse or better then any other route in little. All but 1 bolt was bomber as of meow plus bolted anchors with links. With that being said I don’t think any thing is particularly amazing about any of these pitches but as a whole it’s a really good route. Clean, straight forward, protects well would recommend to anyone that climbs around the grade. Jun 25, 2022

Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT

5.10a

Awesome extension to DLL, makes that 2nd pitch more worth it. Not sure PG-13 is all that warranted, but I was happy to have a locking draw for the crux bolt after the chains. I'd say this is a great one to work on your .10 slab lead head. Decent run out after the crux, but pretty on par with other slabs with the benefit of cool mini dike features that make it feel easier than others in the canyon at the grade. Can't think of a 9+ that would be similar in difficulty, but agree that this is on the easier end of 10a especially if you sneak up to the mid chains from the crack on the left. Jun 6, 2023