[Hide Comment] Pumping jam city. Fun, physical climbing up an awkwardly sinful, steep crack. Decent gear helps combat visions of falling and Devil Tree probe-age. Not the cleanest line, but definitely fun. 10+ years ago (I swear) there were mank quarter inchers at the top, but a crack provides a plentitude of anchor choices. Scramble off east on the standard Cathedral TR Highway. Jun 1, 2008

[Hide Comment] Be careful on this route. The gear is all there, but at least two deck-out falls (one career-ending) have occurred on this route. The tree is always lurking and ready to give you a prostate exam. Aug 12, 2008

[Hide Comment] Yeah, I talked to a guy the other day up there who was just getting healed up after a bad fall on that route. I asked him if he hit the tree, and he told me he hit a lot of things.
Good route though, harder than it looks. Aug 12, 2008

[Hide Comment] CAUTION>>>So to start this is definitely an incredibly stiff 10a. The gear looks good from below and by all means is good when you get on the route. However I am posting today post deck. I got on the climb and had two solid and I will stress solid pieces placed ( a 0.5 C4 and a purple metolius)

After climbing about 3-4 feet above the second piece I peeled from the route and BOTH pieces popped from the rock sending me about 20 feet to the ground flat on my back. I am happy to be able to be posting the next day (with some injuries laying in bed including some minor vertebrae fractures) to caution people to be very careful if you plan on attempting the route.

I cannot say with confidence why the pieces popped, as I know they were well placed - it could be the slickness at times the rock has in ferguson but I really am stumped.

So with that I just say if 10a is about where you are at in your trad leading ability, I would be very careful getting on this route - to me it does not seem like your regular 10a and now with at least three recorded incidents of people decking on this route, please be careful!!!! Jul 3, 2012

[Hide Comment] I stayed off of this route for a long time because of the comments and reputation. Today I got on it, and found it to be an enjoyable line, though committing the whole way.

The starting crack lends itself to a solid cam and then a nut/constriction placement only a foot higher. Given the texture (smooth), the nut was probably the better piece.

The route is sustained and has 3 distinct cruxes. Each one ends with a "jug," some better than others. The final mantle is sure to make you think carefully. May 31, 2014

[Hide Comment] Strenuous and tricky. After topping out, there are some chains off to your (climber's) right that work ok for cleaning the route. Jul 29, 2016

[Hide Comment] I'll add my injury report..
2 placements off ledge I place a crappy #4, climbed a little higher and slipped. Not surprisingly, the piece ripped out (next #1 held) which sent me flat on my back on tree. Luckily it was a flat part of the big tree branch. Licking my wounds with ice on my back the next day. Don't think I'll be back for this one! Jul 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] There’s a newish anchor way up top for this climb(even with the son of scab anchors but around to the left) it’s nice to use some long slings and a .5 or .75 Cam to keep the rope running straight out of the crack and then redirecting it up into the anchor. Thought the gear was really good on this climb the WHOLE WAY. If your worried and want to sew this thing up bring doubles up to #2 one #3 maybe a #4 and your lucky black totem ;) this thing has some really fun jams and lots of body tension. Jul 17, 2022

[Hide Comment] I haven't been in Ferguson for a while but noticed the devil tree is down, maybe happened this winter? Thought I would mention it, maybe a safer/cleaner fall with solid placements (I did not re-climb it). I mangled a .4 falling on this route without hitting the tree, this was a while ago. Jun 7, 2023