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War Clamor

5.5, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 172 votes
FA: James Garrett 2002
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Reservoir Ridge
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Description

Simple face climbing to the ridge. This is the left-most climb, ignoring the chains 15 feet off the ground.

Protection

2 bolts for anchors, and I believe 6 draws for the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First bolt clipped. Can barely see a guy at the chain anchors at the top of the climb (middle of the top of the photo).
[Hide Photo] First bolt clipped. Can barely see a guy at the chain anchors at the top of the climb (middle of the top of the photo).
A beginner top roping up War Clamor
[Hide Photo] A beginner top roping up War Clamor
Doing well on here first time.
[Hide Photo] Doing well on here first time.
Just starting out.... I'm so proud!
[Hide Photo] Just starting out.... I'm so proud!
Photo shows the rope showing line of the route.
[Hide Photo] Photo shows the rope showing line of the route.
View of War Clamor from the ground, giving you a good idea of what to look for when searching for this climb.
[Hide Photo] View of War Clamor from the ground, giving you a good idea of what to look for when searching for this climb.
Almost to the chains on War Clamor 5.5 in Big Cottonwood Canyon
[Hide Photo] Almost to the chains on War Clamor 5.5 in Big Cottonwood Canyon
Climbing War Clamor 5.5 in Big Cottonwood Canyon
[Hide Photo] Climbing War Clamor 5.5 in Big Cottonwood Canyon
Cody chilling at the top after his second lead climb.  Good Job Cody!
[Hide Photo] Cody chilling at the top after his second lead climb. Good Job Cody!
Coming up the final few feet to the chains
[Hide Photo] Coming up the final few feet to the chains
War Clamor 5/20/10
[Hide Photo] War Clamor 5/20/10
On her way up Face Climb 1.
[Hide Photo] On her way up Face Climb 1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] 5.5, maybe even 5.4. The ledges on this route are a bummer, but also keep the widely spaced bolts totally reasonable.

What is the deal with those bright shiny chain anchors 15' off the ground? I am going to chop those unless someone has a good explanation and paints them to make them less of an eyesore. Nov 7, 2004
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] I agree those crazy chains need to be repainted. Looking at them today, I could see they were painted at one time, but the paint must have worn off. I've used them to teach people to change the rope from going through draws to going directly through the chains. I didn't put those chains up, but they do seem good for that purpose. I'll try to remember to bring along spray paint next time I'm in the area. May 8, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.5
[Hide Comment] The chains are now used by the University of Utah as a training tool.

This route can definitely be led safely without the bolts. May 24, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Are you serious? A training tool for a university?

That is sooooo lame. May 24, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I was there on Saturday when an entire class of 10 students and 2 instructors spent 2 hours climbing up, jumping off, and having their belayer catch them. Also utilizing trees and a pulley with a rock being lifted and dropped. This was going on around the corner, and I didn't really pay too much attention to it. Interesting to say the least. It seemed like half of the students seemed more interested in the routes taller than 15 feet. So I mentioned the web-site as a great way to get out in the climbing world, and learn a bit quicker. I remember my brother telling me that was where good ole' Harold Goodro also taught him in his University days back in the 70's. Harold also had them climb up, and jump off to taste the fall, catch, and subsequent abrasions. Good to see the curriculum hasn't changed in 30 years (lol). May 24, 2005
[Hide Comment] I know those chains on the left look crazy, but they worked perfectly for me. I was able to belay my five year old on them while my wife belayed my 8 year old on War Clamor. I then switched over and taught my kids how to belay on the 15 foot chains. It made for a great family outing. Very safe, very easy. I can see why the U would use it. Thanks for leaving them there. That place is way better then the gym and twice as cheap. Jun 25, 2006
[Hide Comment] This is a great beginner climb. Sep 12, 2012
BrokenChairs 88
Denver, CO
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Found some shoes at the base. If they're yours let me know so I can get them back to you. Apr 7, 2016
Nathan G
Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Really easy route, but also really run out. I'd actually recommend new leaders to skip this one and do the harder, but better protected routes to the right. Jul 1, 2017
[Hide Comment] Only 4 anchors that are fairly spaced apart, fun climb though! May 29, 2021
Mike V.
Logan, UT
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Should've listened to the beta below, I ended up getting a piece of gear in between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and I was glad I did. For a moderate, it wasn't really bolted for safe sport climbing. There's definitely ground fall potential getting to the 2nd bolt. Aug 14, 2021
Vy Vu
Oakland, CA
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Once you get to the anchor, take a step to your left and you will get a nice view of the canyon. It looked beautiful during golden hour May 31, 2022
Dylan Day
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] Really fun, could use another bolt after the 2nd bolt. Top out is cool, look past the anchors. Good view. Sep 12, 2022