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War Clamor
5.5,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 1.7 from 172
votes
FA: James Garrett 2002
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Storm Mtn Picni…
> Reservoir Ridge
Access Issue: See bullet points in description.
Details
Description
Simple face climbing to the ridge. This is the left-most climb, ignoring the chains 15 feet off the ground.
Protection
2 bolts for anchors, and I believe 6 draws for the climb.
[Hide Comment] 5.5, maybe even 5.4. The ledges on this route are a bummer, but also keep the widely spaced bolts totally reasonable.
What is the deal with those bright shiny chain anchors 15' off the ground? I am going to chop those unless someone has a good explanation and paints them to make them less of an eyesore.
Nov 7, 2004
[Hide Comment] I agree those crazy chains need to be repainted. Looking at them today, I could see they were painted at one time, but the paint must have worn off. I've used them to teach people to change the rope from going through draws to going directly through the chains. I didn't put those chains up, but they do seem good for that purpose. I'll try to remember to bring along spray paint next time I'm in the area.
May 8, 2005
[Hide Comment] Yeah, I was there on Saturday when an entire class of 10 students and 2 instructors spent 2 hours climbing up, jumping off, and having their belayer catch them. Also utilizing trees and a pulley with a rock being lifted and dropped. This was going on around the corner, and I didn't really pay too much attention to it. Interesting to say the least. It seemed like half of the students seemed more interested in the routes taller than 15 feet. So I mentioned the web-site as a great way to get out in the climbing world, and learn a bit quicker. I remember my brother telling me that was where good ole' Harold Goodro also taught him in his University days back in the 70's. Harold also had them climb up, and jump off to taste the fall, catch, and subsequent abrasions. Good to see the curriculum hasn't changed in 30 years (lol).
May 24, 2005
[Hide Comment] I know those chains on the left look crazy, but they worked perfectly for me. I was able to belay my five year old on them while my wife belayed my 8 year old on War Clamor. I then switched over and taught my kids how to belay on the 15 foot chains. It made for a great family outing. Very safe, very easy. I can see why the U would use it. Thanks for leaving them there. That place is way better then the gym and twice as cheap.
Jun 25, 2006
[Hide Comment] Really easy route, but also really run out. I'd actually recommend new leaders to skip this one and do the harder, but better protected routes to the right.
Jul 1, 2017
[Hide Comment] Should've listened to the beta below, I ended up getting a piece of gear in between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and I was glad I did. For a moderate, it wasn't really bolted for safe sport climbing. There's definitely ground fall potential getting to the 2nd bolt.
Aug 14, 2021
[Hide Comment] Once you get to the anchor, take a step to your left and you will get a nice view of the canyon. It looked beautiful during golden hour
May 31, 2022
Salt Lake City, UT
What is the deal with those bright shiny chain anchors 15' off the ground? I am going to chop those unless someone has a good explanation and paints them to make them less of an eyesore. Nov 7, 2004
Draper, UT
St George
This route can definitely be led safely without the bolts. May 24, 2005
Salt Lake City, UT
That is sooooo lame. May 24, 2005
St George
Denver, CO
Utah
Logan, UT
Oakland, CA
Salt Lake City, UT