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Routes in Decadent Wall

Abortions on Parade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adolescent Homo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bestiality T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Big Easy, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carol's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dimples and Tits S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divine Decadence T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dykes on Harleys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
FDC T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Impotence T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loafers T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lowe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
McKenzie's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nipples and Clits S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pluton Playground T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preteen Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sexual Dysfunction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Testosterone Test T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Much Testosterone T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Twilight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Greg Lowe
Page Views: 25,314 total, 154/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 7, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

AKA: Adolescent Homosapien. Adolescent Homo climbs the obvious long hand and finger crack on the west side of Lower Breadloaf. Great continuous climbing leads to the crux just below the top of the climb. An extremely popular route on an extremely popular wall. Walk left a few feet and rap from anchor's near the top of Double Crack.

Protection

Pro to 3".
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
 
atfarley farley   Salt Lake City, UT
 
depending on your hand size and 'style' i can see how one might either think the lower wide crack or the upper thin stuff could be the crux. I had a trickier time up top whereas my girlfriend blazed through the top but struggled in the wide hand crack (second quarter of the route.) ---hardest .7 that we climbed. Oct 18, 2015
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Dave, why is adolescent 'homosapien' more "punk" than adolescent 'homosexual?' For that matter, why care about being 'punk?' What really matters for the shitty "guidebook" is relevant information - like what the anchor situation is. Sep 20, 2015
Shaun Coe
La Grande, Oregon
 
Shaun Coe   La Grande, Oregon
 
Great climb! so much fun to start out here first day if you are at city. I would recommend bringing a 70M rope just for the wrap because the walk off is safe, but painful. May 5, 2015
This super-obvious, super-popular route was surely climbed decades before Jay G. named it "Adolescent Homo". It never has been "Adolescent Homosexual" (except here on MP). I added the "sapien" part in the guidebook to quiet the critics while retaining some of the punky quality. Personally, I'd love to hear the original name - if they bothered to give it one. Jan 20, 2015
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Thought the pro was a little tough, though it was only my 6th or 7th trad lead. Good route though. 5.7 rating is fair. May 20, 2014
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
One of the best moderate clean routes at the City. On par with Wheat Thin. Upper crux protects fine with small gear. Aug 1, 2013
Aaron Bugh
Bozeman, MT
 
Aaron Bugh   Bozeman, MT
 
If you climb the big offwidth/chimney to the left either with some big gear like the Trango Big Bros or on TR off your anchor for Adolescent it makes a really nice 5.8ish variation. It is a friendly and easy introduction to that style of climbing. Sep 4, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7
Definitely a 5.7 in my opinion. The crux at the top is a bit tricky, but as other commenting peeps have mentioned, it protects well. Great climb though! Rapped off the bolts to the left with a 70m. Jul 23, 2012
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun route. The 5.7 rating is a bit generous. I'd say easy 5.6. Aug 23, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.6
Great climb and great gear. Crux is up high and can be protected pretty well with camalot C3s or stoppers. A great first trad lead for those comfortable at the grade. Seemed easier than a lot of 5.7s in Little Cottonwood, UT. Jul 22, 2010
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
i did this on 07-17-10. i'm a new trad leader and its a great climb. takes pro well. there was a bat in the crack that made it a little hard to hand jam in that spot though. Jul 20, 2010
Ben Folsom  
 
Great climb and great gear, I don't remember any part of this climb that was poorly protected, including the upper portion. Aug 27, 2007
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.7
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.7
This isn't any harder than 5.7, for sure., but I wouldn't recommend it to a new lead. Although you wouldn't fall far, you would have ledge fall at the crux. Sep 27, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.7
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.7
Great route. I highly recommend it, especially for those just getting into leading. The pro is mostly casual, and only one real crux (at the top). May 3, 2005
Is this the climb that used to be called Adolescent Homo? May 3, 2005