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Scream Cheese

5.9, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 322 votes
FA: Dan and Pat Sperlock, 1989
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Anteater Rock > Anteater - West

Description

This climb goes up the prow next to Swiss Cheese. It has a fun mix of jugs, face, and slab climbing. There is a nocticeable runout half way up the route, but the holds are good. Rap the route from chains on top. Probably one of the best 5.9 sport climbs at the City.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchor at top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tyler Wheeler gets vertical on Scream Cheese.
[Hide Photo] Tyler Wheeler gets vertical on Scream Cheese.
Ron Long hucking another lap on Scream Cheese.
[Hide Photo] Ron Long hucking another lap on Scream Cheese.
great shot by dottie cross.
[Hide Photo] great shot by dottie cross.
En route to the second clip. Great exposure and a great view!
[Hide Photo] En route to the second clip. Great exposure and a great view!
Dude Tring Scream Cheese
[Hide Photo] Dude Tring Scream Cheese
A wide shot of Anteater, you can see Bath Rock in the background.
[Hide Photo] A wide shot of Anteater, you can see Bath Rock in the background.
Scream Cheese - late 80's
[Hide Photo] Scream Cheese - late 80's
Felicia Terry - August '05 <br>
Photo by Sandy Draus
[Hide Photo] Felicia Terry - August '05 Photo by Sandy Draus
This is just the rough idea of the routes not exactly where you'll be climbing. I skipped the last bolt at the 5.9 scream cheese went right to the anchors. The top slab climbing was real scary.
[Hide Photo] This is just the rough idea of the routes not exactly where you'll be climbing. I skipped the last bolt at the 5.9 scream cheese went right to the anchors. The top slab climbing was real scary.
Scream cheese made me scream.
[Hide Photo] Scream cheese made me scream.
My wife hitting the sweet spot after styling the opening moves.
[Hide Photo] My wife hitting the sweet spot after styling the opening moves.
"Scream Cheese".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Scream Cheese". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bob Bland
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is a superb route at City of Rocks, one of my favorites. It has great holds and sequences, culminating in a surprizing little "change of pace" friction crux near the top. Bolt placements are excellent, and the rappel anchors are right on top of Swiss Cheese. All bolts. Aug 16, 2004
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
[Hide Comment] There is now a second set of chains at the top exclusively for this route. Jun 27, 2005
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
[Hide Comment] I led this route and felt that it was a pretty soft 5.9. My partner, who never top-roped a 5.9 before, thought it was easier than Delay of Game! However, the mid-route runout did freak me out a bit and I had to stop to make sure I didn't miss a bolt. Overall a fun climb and good for the first-time 5.9 climber. Aug 16, 2006
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Great route. I didn't even notice the runout (and believe me I notice runouts). It must have been that after all the friction climbing and trad climbing the holds were so positive (and it is bolted!) it was no big deal. My crux was getting on to the slab. I just needed to high step to the last good hold and balance up. After that small pockets make it a very easy slab. Jul 16, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] No cooler 5.9 sport route. Yes run outs between 3 and 4 but the holds are great. the crux is getting off all those big chicken heads that have spoiled you onto the whimpering slab section. But one or two tricky moves of that and the going gets good. fun fun, great combo with Skyline. Consider a belay anchor at the bottom as the stance is a little exposed. Jun 27, 2010
[Hide Comment] This climb is not as run out as lots of city classics and each time I have climbed it I have never felt there was a safety issues as I always felt the route was very well enginered and I have never thought a fall in between 3 rd and 4 th bolt a problem. But as there is a small scoop below the third bolt I watched my friend peel off today about 8 feet above the 3rd bolt and take a good 16 foot drop before the rope even caught perhaps a bit less as I took in as much rope as I could. Where I always imagined the route was steep enough to provide a safe fall on the run out I realized that the scoop will stop u before the rope will resulting in two broken ankles and one piggy back ride to parking lot rock parking. Freak accident in all accounts I dont know if would happen again. But I share this so people can be aware there is a danger factor on this route easy to miss. One that I had never considered. Please climb safe and take this into account. All the same this route is one of my city faves and should be climbed. Aug 18, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic - great location/view. Great variety of climbing. Slab on top not as runout as many other slab finishes in the City. Hit up this on your way back to the lot after doing Skyline for an amazing morning of climbing. Oct 29, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arĂȘte next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me. Jun 20, 2016
[Hide Comment] To the individual who put and left blue tick marks (pretty sure it was sidewalk chalk... seriously?) on this route. If you NEED tick marks for some reason, scrub it off when you're done and just an FYI, sidewalk chalk is not okay. Please learn some outdoor climbing etiquette. Jul 25, 2016
[Hide Comment] Now my favorite 9 after Flower of High Rank in CA! Great climbing! Oct 11, 2016
[Hide Comment] Both anchor bolts were spinners as of June, 2017. Very easy and short traverse to the Swiss Cheese anchors recommended. Jul 24, 2017
Mark Says
Basalt, CO
 
[Hide Comment] At the end of the day, when you're just trying to bag one more route, and you're looking at that run out... and then someone hikes up to get on route after you, so you just go for it, and a moment later you're clipping the anchors... starting off exposed sets the mood for this, and it's a shoot dang ton of fun. Sep 29, 2017
user id
SMOGden, UT
[Hide Comment] What? Thats sounds like a shoot dang ton of bass-ackwards spray. Oct 2, 2017