PRINT: Rock Climb Drunken Cowboy, City of Rocks

Drunken Cowboy

5.7, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 143 votes
FA: unknown
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Window Rock > Window Rock - East

Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Details

The west side of Window Rock has seasonal bird closure in the spring until June 15th- check for closure signs posted in the parking lot.

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

In the center of the east face on Window Rock are a series of perfect hand cracks that don't quite make it to the ground. Look for a bolt below the start of two of these cracks. The left crack is Good Times, and the right crack is Pure Pleasure. Both are 5.7, and both are enjoyable. You should do these as well. Drunken Climber is the crack to the right of these.

There is a tree at the base of the route. Start at this tree and head up into the crack above you to its end. Belay on a big ledge with horizontal placements for an anchor.

Descend with a one-rope rappel off a two-bolt anchor located 5 feet to climber's right of the route, landing at the tree where you started.

Note: I don't know what this route is historically called, but ``Drunken Climber'' is what we have always called it. If you know more about this route, please speak up!

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting ready to set a rappel of the anchors above Drunken Cowbow.

Looking up Drunken Cowboy and Crunk Cowgirl from the base of the rock.

Drunken Climber, or Drunken Cowboy, is the thin, left hand crack ending right of the round knob.

Angela following up Drunken Cowboy.

The climber is beginning "Pure Pleasure," and "Drunken Climber" or "Drunken Cowboy" is the next crack to the immediate right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Curtis
Rexburg, ID

5.7

I really enjoyed this climb. Crux at the beggining and then easier the closer you got to the top. Crack climbing mixed with a little face climbing. Great little route. Jul 18, 2008

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT

I've also heard this route called "Drunken Cowboy." Oct 25, 2011

Dave Bingham
Hailey, ID

Is this a crack that's un-named in the Bingham guide, just r. of PP? Thanks for the info! Nov 8, 2011

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT

This route is not mentioned in the 7th edition of the Bingham guidebook. It is the next crack directly right from Pure Pleasure. The start may be reached by a short scramble, and avoids the slightly runout start of the 2 preceding routes. The pro possibilities are excellent all the way! Jan 22, 2012

Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO

5.7

This is much better than Good Times in my opinion. Definitely worth the effort. A bit of smearing/slab moves at top if I remember correctly. Jul 23, 2012

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT

Theres also another crack, about 5 ft to the right of this one. Also unnamed, and worth doing if you are in the area. Probably goes at ~5.6. You can see it in both the beta pics. Mar 16, 2015

Idaho Bob
McCall, ID

5.7

First climbed this years ago with Wake Williams. We called it Anchor Direct, since that is where the crack leads. Unprotected move to crack is easier than getting to the first bolt on the two 5.6 climbs to the left. No need to build an anchor, just belay off the chain anchor/rap station at top of the crack. Last two moves are a little thin. Jul 1, 2015

James Barnett

Fun route along with the other ones on a very hot August day Aug 29, 2016

Mattisadude

Similar to the others nearby. Fun climbing, great spot to chill at the city with beginners. Feb 7, 2018

Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID

5.6

Great first lead at the grade for my girlfriend, though personally I thought it climbed at 5.6 - then again I was following, but compared to other benchmarks at the grade (Wheat Thin, Colombia Crack) this route is softy.

Nevertheless, a cool climb with optional jams, great gear, face holds galore - short enough to inspire confidence for the new leader - fun! Nov 29, 2021