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Carol's Crack

5.8, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3 from 267 votes
FA: Steinfell Club '64
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Decadent Wall

Description

AKA: Double Cracks. This is on the left side of the west face. It is in deep shade early morning. It is easy to identify by the closely spaced double cracks that start on top of the large leftward rising ramp. Scramble up the ramp any way you choose, then jam the fun crack for 50 feet or so until it lowers angle. No anchor at the top.

To rap, scramble to your right (when facing the cliff) to an anchor. A one rope rap with a 60m touches down near the ground, where a short scramble off is easy.

The climbing on this is really good, but the upper crack is so short that it is over too quickly!

Protection

This is a hand crack - mainly hand sized pieces, but bring a variety of pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber on the right is on Adolescent Humanoid, on the left is Double Cracks
[Hide Photo] Climber on the right is on Adolescent Humanoid, on the left is Double Cracks
My wife on her first gear clean ever!!! She did great this is a good climb to boost confidence!
[Hide Photo] My wife on her first gear clean ever!!! She did great this is a good climb to boost confidence!
Crack climbing on second half of pitch.
[Hide Photo] Crack climbing on second half of pitch.
Carol's (Twin) Cracks to the left, Adult Homosapien to the right
[Hide Photo] Carol's (Twin) Cracks to the left, Adult Homosapien to the right
Stephi, leading the lower portion of Carol's Crack.
[Hide Photo] Stephi, leading the lower portion of Carol's Crack.
Leading Carol's double cracks-great stuff!
[Hide Photo] Leading Carol's double cracks-great stuff!
Dean Allison enjoying the climb and day
[Hide Photo] Dean Allison enjoying the climb and day
The yellow arrow indicates Carol's "double cracks" Carol's Crack 5.8+
[Hide Photo] The yellow arrow indicates Carol's "double cracks" Carol's Crack 5.8+

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is commonly called carol's crack. Great route..eats up stoppers...Not to be confused with the Route "double Cracks 10a" on the backside of the king on his throne. Jun 11, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Great route, with some great exposure. Wider gear on the crack getting to the top of the pedestal. Whereas, the double "ski track" cracks, can be sewn up with whatever you bring. I used mainly smaller stuff, 2 inches or less. You will need to set up your own anchor, and their is a set of chains to rap off of to climbers right. You will need a 70 meter, and that barely reaches. Sep 11, 2006
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] All you should need is a 60m rope to rap off - the down climb is nothing intense. Feb 7, 2007
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
[Hide Comment] Great fun did the direct start rather than the ramp, it wasn't too strenuous if you like stemming. May 18, 2009
ted coxworth
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Direct start adds to this climb. Don't cheat yourself! May 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] Nice steep cracks, definitely "full value" for the grade. Takes good gear. Aug 23, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun stuff. As a 5.8 this felt much harder than Skyline or Rye Crisp.
On the rappel my 60 meter rope left us a few feet shy of the ground on the ramp...70 meter rope not needed. Jul 19, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] To counter Doug's comment I felt this was much easier than Skyline or Ryecrisp. The route is not nearly as sustain as either of those. I would recommend this to climbers looking for a good first 5.8 crack in the city Sep 12, 2011
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Regarding the twin cracks up top. When there isn't a good hand jam, then there is always a good face-hold. When there isn't a good face hold, there is always a good hand-jam. Good route for sure. Jun 3, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Stellar. The twin cracks section is full value. Aug 1, 2013
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] for the rap, our 70m made it with lots of rope to spare. anyone know if a 60 with rope stretch can make it? This wall is taller than it looks from the bottom. Oct 18, 2015