Schoolroom Roof
5.6 A1,
Trad, Aid,
Avg: 3 from 22
votes
FA: Dick Ream, Larry Evans, Rich Ream, Court Richards 1964
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Schoolroom Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Climb the first three pitches of Schoolroom as normal (or two pitches if you do Schoolroom Direct through the handcrack) to the large bushy ledge directly under the roof.
Two options now exist, I prefer the second:(1) Climb the wide dihedral as normal, traverse halfway across the slab to the finger crack, up crack to the roof and start aiding. After the roof, free-climb (5.6) up the crack to the large tree. This option is almost a full rope length, causes lots of rope drag, but provides the best communication.
(2) As above, in two pitches. First, a short pitch up the wide dihedral, belay at the beginning of the traverse. This option has very little rope drag, but has impossible communication, so I recommend rope signals (or radios).
The aid section traverses more than it rises, so I recommend the second aid through it while being belayed by the leader (as opposed to jugging).
Descent: the Schoolroom Rappel.
I also recommend climbing this route at night!
Protection
Standard Rack, possibly a large piece for the large dihedral on Schoolroom, extra carabiners for the fixed pins. There has recently (2004) been some fixed-gear removal happening in LCC; if the pins aren't there, you'll need some thin iron and a hammer. It will be best to leave fixed any pins you place.
[Hide Photo] Schoolroom 5.6 II on the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon
[Hide Photo] Me having a ton of fun on the roof
[Hide Photo] Brian Cabe gettin' ready to turn the Schoolroom Roof. 17 April 2004. Photo by Brian Smoot.
Broomfield, CO
SLC
Edit as of June 8th 2023 their seemed to still be pins May 23, 2023