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Schoolroom Roof

5.6 A1, Trad, Aid,  Avg: 3 from 22 votes
FA: Dick Ream, Larry Evans, Rich Ream, Court Richards 1964
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the first three pitches of Schoolroom as normal (or two pitches if you do Schoolroom Direct through the handcrack) to the large bushy ledge directly under the roof.

Two options now exist, I prefer the second:(1) Climb the wide dihedral as normal, traverse halfway across the slab to the finger crack, up crack to the roof and start aiding. After the roof, free-climb (5.6) up the crack to the large tree. This option is almost a full rope length, causes lots of rope drag, but provides the best communication.

(2) As above, in two pitches. First, a short pitch up the wide dihedral, belay at the beginning of the traverse. This option has very little rope drag, but has impossible communication, so I recommend rope signals (or radios).

The aid section traverses more than it rises, so I recommend the second aid through it while being belayed by the leader (as opposed to jugging).

Descent: the Schoolroom Rappel.

I also recommend climbing this route at night!

Protection

Standard Rack, possibly a large piece for the large dihedral on Schoolroom, extra carabiners for the fixed pins. There has recently (2004) been some fixed-gear removal happening in LCC; if the pins aren't there, you'll need some thin iron and a hammer. It will be best to leave fixed any pins you place.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Schoolroom 5.6 II on the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon
[Hide Photo] Schoolroom 5.6 II on the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon
Me having a ton of fun on the roof
[Hide Photo] Me having a ton of fun on the roof
Hanging out
[Hide Photo] Hanging out
Brian Cabe gettin' ready to turn the Schoolroom Roof.  17 April 2004.  Photo by Brian Smoot.
[Hide Photo] Brian Cabe gettin' ready to turn the Schoolroom Roof. 17 April 2004. Photo by Brian Smoot.
peeking paul
[Hide Photo] peeking paul
my bud from TX sure liked this!
[Hide Photo] my bud from TX sure liked this!
weee...
[Hide Photo] weee...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO
  5.6 C0+
[Hide Comment] As far as how many draws to bring: There are 7 pitons in the roof, and two more after turning the lip. Bring enough for these (9 draws) and any extensions you may want on gear before/after. Also, the current spacing of the pitons is very beginner friendly for bolt ladder practice. This ain't no Kor Roof or bolt ladder! May 10, 2019
[Hide Comment] Anyone know if the pins are still there?

Edit as of June 8th 2023 their seemed to still be pins May 23, 2023