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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA: D. Boyd, E. Eliason, 1970 FFA: L. Ellison, L. Carrol, 1979
Page Views: 5,783 total, 38/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The dihedral just right of Half-a-Finger, is Black and White John and Mary. The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation. Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture. Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy lie-backs, and fun stems.

There is a direct finish to Black and White which was added by Doug Heinrich sometime around 2002. Its about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) cuts left to the Half-A-Finger belay

Protection

Small gear.
gradymellin
  5.10-
gradymellin  
  5.10-
Got on the normal "non-direct" start today, super fun climb! Felt a little soft, in the 10-, pretty sustained with no real district crux although I was able to get a few good no hands rest by just stemming and trusting my feet. Nov 1, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
The giant jug/horn at the beginning was a tiny bit loose. Didn't notice it until I stood on it. Didn't feel it, could only hear it. Be careful. Jul 27, 2015
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
Great route. The original start and finish make for an epic lead! However, We spent some time today sussing out the beta to the 11 start and 11 finish and I have to say, if you do the route this way it is simply amazing, I would say the best climb I have done in LCC. The gear is there, except for some spice in the beginning, but it is hard to place. Can you say sustained?!! Oct 9, 2013
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
+1 for best lead on the wall. The gear though small, is all there. Yeah the tip of the opening flake flexes, but rock solid lower and eats a nut. Shouldn't deter the competent leader as there are solid placements above once established. Doubles from blue tcu to orange will get it done, triples to sew it up. Also, good gear is available just before the top out left Aug 8, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Great lead. Really fun. I placed 3 .3 camalots and 2 .4 camalots plus the bolt for gear. Maybe I'm not that observant but the last 10 feet or so to get to the chains is lacking gear. Felt easier than psychobabble in BCC with all the stems and low angle though. Crux is the mantle 10 feet into the climb. Jun 9, 2011
801maxwell
SLC
 
801maxwell   SLC
 
Got skeeved out on this today when the horn on the top of the first flake started to flex and move considerably when mantling up on the ledge, especially since the only gear placed was between it and the wall. Looks solid but definitely felt hollow. Be careful where you belay and climb lightly! Jun 6, 2011
This climb is totally TRable from the top of half a finger. It's a really good, strenous route. I liked it a lot. Still don't have the balls to lead it though. Oct 23, 2009
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
The direct finish was added by Doug Heinrich about five or six years ago. It does check in at about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) does cut left to the Half a Finger belay. Aug 15, 2008
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
  5.10c
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
  5.10c
The Ruckman book has the top of this route traversing left and sharing the same chains as Hal-A-Finger. There are another set of chains if you continue directly op some scary flakes. I was wondering if anyone knew which is the "true" top of this climb?

I tried to reach the upper chains, but it was a bit intimidating, so I followed the Ruckman route to Half-A-Finger. The direct option seemed a bit harder and a little runout... Jul 13, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Awesome route!! Much harder for me than Equipment Left. Many cruxes and very sustained. Aug 2, 2007
tenesmus  
 
Truly is. Lots more pro on it than you think the first time you do it. Apr 9, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10c
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10c
best lead on the wall. Jan 25, 2006