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Kermit's Direct Start
5.10a R,
Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 65
votes
FA: FA: David Rubine, 1982 FFA: S. Carson
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Kermits Wall
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Instead of climbing up the rightward trending ramp, climb directly up the face to the small roof band, place a cam with a runner, and make the crux move up onto the face. Relatively easy climbing joins in with Kermit's Wad.
Protection
A cam under the terrace, and 6 draws for the route (+2 for the chains).
Tempe, AZ
SLC, UT
Small Lake, UT
This direct start was was top roped in 1982 by David Rubine right after the 1st ascent of the original lead. (see Kermit's Wad for new 1st ascent info.) He originally rated it 5.10a to the 1st bolt of Kermit's Wad. May 23, 2010
On the road to perdition
Sandy, UT
Park City, UT
Salt Lake City
Huntsville, UT