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Regular Route

5.7+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 78 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > PA's Mother

Description

This route is a large, but not quite off-width crack. It is easy to get to and is a great climb. It's the perfect length as a warm-up route for the day. If you have the right cams protection is easy and the climbing is good.

Protection

Use cams between 1 and 4. Also placed a hex. There is a double-bolt anchor at the top and a good ledge to belay from.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Breaking in the raw rack
[Hide Photo] Breaking in the raw rack
Picture of P.A.'s Mother
[Hide Photo] Picture of P.A.'s Mother
Regular route from the road
[Hide Photo] Regular route from the road
Regular route close up
[Hide Photo] Regular route close up
Regular Route is the Crack to the right
[Hide Photo] Regular Route is the Crack to the right
Lots of features out of the crack for both hands and feet.
[Hide Photo] Lots of features out of the crack for both hands and feet.
I have my first piece at my feet. The crack opens up here to about 2 - 3". The route goes straight up from here.
[Hide Photo] I have my first piece at my feet. The crack opens up here to about 2 - 3". The route goes straight up from here.
Brian on Regular Route, P.A.'s Mother, Rock Canyon. Right before the crack opens up and overhangs.
[Hide Photo] Brian on Regular Route, P.A.'s Mother, Rock Canyon. Right before the crack opens up and overhangs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Jensen
  5.7
[Hide Comment] There is only one bloted chain at the top of this route. While it seems fairly solid it does look like it has been through quite a few seasons of weather and use. The crack is wide, but not off width. 2 - 4" pieces protect it well. May 17, 2005
Chuck
Columbus, GA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] To top rope this one, It's a little skechy getting to the anchor. You may want to do a short rappel down. Bring webbing to extend anchor over the lip. You can back the anchor up with a 10' piece of webing around a large horn at the top. Apr 24, 2006
Lee Jensen
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts have been replaced with chains. They are up about three feet higher then the previous "set". This makes for a really clean anchor since the rope no longer drags into the crack.

I placed Camalots 4, 3, 2, and 1, with a couple of ~3/4 inch pieces down low. May 21, 2007
Tristan Higbee
Pocatello, ID
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed this for the first time today. I thought this route was awesome! Great jamming with some nice holds in and out of the crack. Seemed easier than some other Rock Canyon trad 5.7s (definitely felt easier than Main Crack on Ed and Terry). Thoroughly enjoyable.

I placed .75, 1, 2, 3, and 4 Camalots. I might have placed two #1s... Two bomber, stainless ring anchors are on top. I'd still recommend putting a shoulder-length sling on each one to help with rope drag if toproping.

Also, I wouldn't call this an offwidth. It's mostly bomber hand jams with great jugs around, too. It's not necessary to do any OW moves. Jul 2, 2009
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Yes, there are some wide pods, but in between in perfect jamming. Great fun. Worth doing a bunch of times. Jul 13, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Fantastic little route. Arm jams, knee jams, gastons, hand jams, everything you could ask for in a climb, all on fantastic rock. There's even a great double pocket inside the crack you can get on. My favorite climb on this wall. Apr 16, 2010
ScowHound
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great route --- climbed it twice --- more like a 5.8 in my opinon --- great pro. Aug 9, 2010
Owen Witesman
Springville, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] As noted, some extension slings would be smart to TR this since the rings are behind the edge. Awkward, not much fun. Wouldn't climb again. Mar 22, 2014
Troy Rodgers
Draper, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I have 2.5 to 3 Camalot sized hands. I didn't need to make any offwidth moves the entire route. Steep, well protected, and fun. Jun 4, 2017
Frasier Crane
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun little route, but is easier than the grade suggests. May 3, 2019
Nash Ward
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Taught my friend how to Trad climb on this route, it is easy to protect and easy to climb. A good route, but not worth making a trip to PA's mother just to climb this one route. May 30, 2020