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Spirit Prison

5.4, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 8 votes
FA: Hank Armantrout, 1983
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Ferguson Canyon > Watchtower > Watchtower Main

Description

Just left of Holy Grail, behind a cottonwood tree is an easy chimney. This climbs up this chimney until a ledge is attained. There are some memorable moments, but also plenty of ugly, dirty moments.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The falcon guide indicates a triple trunked tree, but it seems to have lost some trunks. The dark shadowy area is the base of the route
[Hide Photo] The falcon guide indicates a triple trunked tree, but it seems to have lost some trunks. The dark shadowy area is the base of the route
This is the view up the chimney from the base behind the tree.
[Hide Photo] This is the view up the chimney from the base behind the tree.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] tell me nathanwhy did you climb the route? Apr 13, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.2
[Hide Comment] I debated whether to even dignify your anonymous rip, a response; but, maybe you really don't understand why some people climb. I climb to climb. If you read my profile you would see that I love to climb as many routes as possible, and even though the route may suck, by someone elses standards, I will try it and sometimes find that hidden gem of a route. So why did I climb it? To quote a great mountaineer, "Because it is there."

Make sense!! Apr 15, 2005
Pensimani Lomani
centerville, UT
 
[Hide Comment] 6/22/21 I do not know how to trad yet, so I used the walk off to get to the top of the buttress, and set up an anchor to TR solo. The first half of the rappel was nasty. Lots of sharp edges to hurt your rope, and lots of bushes and dirt to fight. Once you get down into the actual chimney it's not so bad. I had fun climbing it, because I'm new, and I don't know any better. I liked it though. Someone please teach me to trad. Jul 8, 2021
Finn Lanvers
SLC
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Mega sandbagged I would give it a 5:9 pg13 walk off is reasonable but you are better off cutting the climbing short and using the adjacent sport anchors Apr 30, 2023