PRINT: Rock Climb Ruddy Duck, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Ruddy Duck

5.8 X, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 1.5 from 8 votes
FA: Bill Robins, Kirsten Davis, 1985
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > S Face

Access Issue: On private land. Details

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….

Be respectful of private property.

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This is the center bolted (lol) line. Very runout with big tumble potential, so be careful on this lead. This climbs up to and just left of the reddish streak on the rock. The reddish streak seemed to be more flaky than the rest of the face, so I stayed on the left side of it. Again, it is not a hard route, just runout and more of a head game.

Protection

1 piton and 1 bolt are fixed on the route. I sed a #4 HB brass for the first piece, the piton, bolt, #3 HB brass (didn't like that) in a thin seam, and a medium nut. The anchor is natural, and cams are very useful for this.