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Jesus or Jeopardy
5.10c,
Sport,
Avg: 2.8 from 35
votes
FA: Colin Reynolds & John Gonthier 1986
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Egg
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
This great route climbs the slabby arete right of the widish Lowe Blowe crack.We usually do Groovin to get to the start which is a small ledge on the right (up-canyon side of the arete). You could also probably climb it from the bolted anchor at the base of Lowe Blowe which would allow the belay a better view of the leader.Interesting and exciting the whole way! The crux is probably moving from the right side of the arete to the left side 3 bolts up. The climb is well protected (it ain't no Viewing). At the top there is an anchor and with one 70m rope you can get down using the Variety Delight rap station.
Protection
Its all bolts but you have to do a trad pitch, usually Groovin, to get to it!
[Hide Photo] The route flips over to the other side of the arete and stays h.a.r.d. without rests for 3 more bolts or so. Thin, exfoliating slab. Well bolted, but thuggish.
[Hide Comment] I'm not the most experienced slab climber, but this route was harder for me than most 10.d's I've done. Great fun route, just get ready for several hard moves. There's an option to bail left into the Lowe Blow route, but bring some pro if you don't care for the long run-out to the chains. A 70 meter rap will get you to the anchor at the base of Lowe Blow.
May 29, 2011
[Hide Comment] Harder than multiplicity. In the ballpark of mind blow and dorsal fin pitch one, except well protected with bomber bolts every 6-8 feet. Three or four cruxes, I thought all equally challenging. Belaying from the bush just above the anchors for Groovin' worked well for us. Really fun!
Dec 7, 2015
[Hide Comment] Trickier and more thin than most of the 10+ slabs in Little Cottonwood. I think the 10 b/c rating is a fair rating. It is protected great with two or three more strenuous moves. This route is very worth taking the time to get up there.
Apr 20, 2017
Avg: 2.8 from 35
votes
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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SLC
SLC, UT
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